Applies also to all models. Seen a reddit post of a 1303 with the new logo
Edit. he sanded it
Geez thats hideous on the KU
Applies also to all models. Seen a reddit post of a 1303 with the new logo
Edit. he sanded it
I guess it's not a huge deal. People dont necessarily buy this knife because of the looks anyways.
Like pertti mentions, try the ebay seller waaw1331. I live in the Netherlands too and I’ve just ordered the bbq chopper. Hope I will get one with the old logo but if not that is not a huge problem as well.Couldn't they have waited with this until I finally found a place to source one here in the Netherlands? Bugger...
1303 for carbon, or 1912 for stainless. I'd consider them on the smaller side for a cleaver, but they are relatively inexpensive, nimble and enjoyable to use.I was hoping not to dive that deep into the cleaver-hole... mostly wanted to try a decent (and affordable) sample to see what all the fuss is about and see if it's my cup of tea or not. CCK seemed a good place to start.
So what's the most model to start with?
Completely agree. Other cleavers are much heavier and therefore have a different feeling when using them which may be a bit strange for those coming from gyutos. Ask me how I know!1303 for carbon, or 1912 for stainless. I'd consider them on the smaller side for a cleaver, but they are relatively inexpensive, nimble and enjoyable to use.
Also glad I got mine early. Love the stamp, and still have the paper - it looks fitting somehow.Really love the stamping into metal, and minimalism of my CCK cleaver just wrapped in paper and a rubber band. However, CCKs have become so popular, that it makes total business sense for them to gussy up the packaging as they aim to expand their market. Laser etching surely a more efficient process when they scale up production. Good for them!
Glad I got mine when I did.
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I still use my paper as well. What do you think of that duck knife? I wish it was carbon.Also glad I got mine early. Love the stamp, and still have the paper - it looks fitting somehow.
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I actually like it stainless, it’s good to a have a hustle free knife. A pain to de-burr though. I bought a bunch of them at the time and used them as gifts when coming home - they are busy in two pro kitchens in my home town nowI still use my paper as well. What do you think of that duck knife? I wish it was carbon.
How do others feel about sharpening the 1912 vs the 1303? Reactivity on the 1303? These threads have me itching to give a cleaver a try. I like carbon, but don't want to deal with Mazaki-like reactivity on this one.
I can see a bit of what you're saying, but it sounds like we have very different examples. I have the 1912 and 1303, both stamped and purchased in 2020. They're the same spine thickness at the handle, but the stainless has almost no distal taper. The carbon is nicely tapered down the spine but less tapered from spine to heel, and you can see the primary bevel grind clearly. The stainless seems like it was manufactured as a near-perfect wedge, given a quick sharpening and sent out the door.It’s quite a difference between the 1303 and 1912. The stainless one is not just a stainless version of the 1303, it’s much thicker and more of just a big slab of steel. The 1303 feels much thinner and nimbler, with a nice tapering. Between those two, I’d definatelly go for the 1303. It came with protective laquer on it, and I’m ashamed to admit I never bothered to remove it , so I can’t say much about the reactivity. Very nice knife though, if you like the rough lawn mower-style blade estethics
Also glad I got mine early. Love the stamp, and still have the paper - it looks fitting somehow.
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At action sales, the 1302 is 51.85USD before shipping and after coupon code "supply15"
The steel is fairly reactive. Overall, I'd say it's similar to Mazaki. But for the $60 that I paid, I don't mind.How do others feel about sharpening the 1912 vs the 1303? Reactivity on the 1303? These threads have me itching to give a cleaver a try. I like carbon, but don't want to deal with Mazaki-like reactivity on this one.
My 1303 had a bit of warp too. I didnt even notice until after I used it for almost a year. But the blade is so thin, I just put it on a piece of wood and bent it back. It's still not perfectly straight, but it doesnt seem to have any affect on cutting.I can see a bit of what you're saying, but it sounds like we have very different examples. I have the 1912 and 1303, both stamped and purchased in 2020. They're the same spine thickness at the handle, but the stainless has almost no distal taper. The carbon is nicely tapered down the spine but less tapered from spine to heel, and you can see the primary bevel grind clearly. The stainless seems like it was manufactured as a near-perfect wedge, given a quick sharpening and sent out the door.
All that sounds like a knock against the stainless, but I like the balance better. The distal taper of the carbon on such a small thin cleaver makes it not forward-balanced enough for my taste. Can't say how they cut, the carbon is still BNIB mainly because the edge is too warped to sharpen fully and it wasn't worth returning (maybe it'll become a collectors item and I can 'flip' it eventually ) I don't mind sharpening the stainless, it's nicer than the typical moly steel but only slightly
How did you treat it those handles?I have both the 1303 and 1302, prefer the slightly larger dimensions of the latter. Both good.
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