Nice! I'm still learning knives but looks a lot like the one that was given to me
Daily Sharpening Pics
- Thread starter cotedupy
- Start date
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| Itinomonn StainLess Kasumi 150mm Wa Petty |
Guys I am terrible at sharpening normal people knives. Traaaaash. The soft steel, huge bellies and sheer mass BTE are all so displeasing. Bolsters. I also don’t do it very often, so I’m fighting muscle memory every step of the way.
On the plus side I spent a bit more time deburring after setting an edge with SG220 and the result is just below an 8/10, which I did not expect. This kind of sharp on a low grit stone is new in my world. Gonna have to revisit that old HHT off SP120 thread.
Also unsure as to why this is all italicized.
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tim huang
Well-Known Member
and i found a scratch on one side of the bevel..........back to 180grit 
I was watching some YouTube vids of Ivan and he pulled out a Mazaki KU to sharpen/polish and it inspired me to do the same with mine.
Spent a few hours last night playing with some different low grits and working on the bevels. This is after taking it up to sg500 to see how the work is progressing.
There’s a stubborn low spot on the heel I’m trying not to overdo but other than that it’s been smooth.
I’m a novice polisher so any tips or suggestions are welcome based on what you see.
Spent a few hours last night playing with some different low grits and working on the bevels. This is after taking it up to sg500 to see how the work is progressing.
There’s a stubborn low spot on the heel I’m trying not to overdo but other than that it’s been smooth.
I’m a novice polisher so any tips or suggestions are welcome based on what you see.
Do you do this ambidextrous or do you only use one of your LH/RH side for this?
Don’t try and chase out that low spot at the edge by the heel by working the whole bevel - you’re just going to wildly push up that shinogi trying to get there. You need to add some more convexity and work it out from the lamination line down. Will mean losing some height (not the full height of the low spot!!) but it’s worth the trade off.
Also you aren’t rotating enough at the tip to compensate for the distal taper. Your edge to shinogi angle at the tip will be far more acute than at the heel.
MowgFace
Senior Member
This.
Adjusting for the tip and heel is the thing that I think took me the longest to internalize. Not just for wide bevels, but edge sharpening too (just on a smaller scale). Jon (JKI) always stressed this on his livestreams and still was a lesson I thought I had figured out way before I really did.
Ambidextrous. I actually do the same for sharpening the edge. I've always felt more comfortable switching hands and keeping the edge facing me.
Thanks for the tips! I'll start working on the convexity near/around the lamination line. That makes a lot of sense and I've already noticed that shinogi line going way up on the left hand side of the blade chasing that low spot.
For rotating the tip is the goal to be making more contact with the blade face near the tip then? Similar to how the KU line draws up steeper in that area? Also when you say rotate, is it rotating the tip towards me or away from me? Or is it more of a lift where I'd have the tip touching the stone but not the rest of the blade due to the taper? The lift concept is similar to what I do when I'm edge sharpening to keep the angle at the tip so I'm familiar with that.
Yes, you want maintain the height of your contact area from heel to toe giving yourself a uniform shinogi height. You can see from your scratch pattern that you are over abrading at the heel and under abrading at the tip. The compensating motion is a mix of lifting the handle up and rotating towards the spine. Subtle but important movements.
tim huang
Well-Known Member
try to thin another hitohira ashi SW stainless gyuto 240.
