Do tomatoes provide a fine benchmark for sharpness of kitchen knives?

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CableReady

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Hey, novice sharpener here, with some probably naive questions about testing my work.

We go through a lot of Roma tomatoes in my household. (Just for one example, nearly every week I make pico de gallo as chips with pico de Gallo is one of my favorite snacks.) I first slice the tomato in half longways, take out the core, slice longways into strips, then dice. I do this with anywhere from 5-15 tomatoes at a time. I always want my knife sharp enough to go through the tomato skin with virtually no resistance, so there's no squishing.

I (perhaps naively) reckon there are two dimensions along which one's sharpening job can be evaluated: (1) how sharp the edge is and (2) how long it retains that sharpness (abstracting from the quality of the blade itself, and just considering the sharpening job all other things being equal).

It seems to me that these can come apart. One might be able to get a wicked sharp edge right off the stones, but (e.g., because of improper deburring?) it loses it quicker than it should. That is to say, the knife loses its sharpness quicker than it would have, had one done a better job. On the other hand, one might fail at getting the knife as sharp as one could have, but at least it's a strong edge that will retain its sharpness. So, these two things can come apart. Now I have a question about evaluating my sharpening job in the case of each.

(1) Is it safe to suppose that if my fruit/vegetable knife is cutting through tomatoes without any resistance from the skin that I've gotten it sufficiently sharp for the purposes of any other (fruit&veg) kitchen tasks I might use that knife for?

(2) If so, then how long (very toughly), in number of Roma tomatoes diced, should I expect that edge to last? That is, an edge that cuts through tomatoes without any real resistance from the skin. What ballpark number would tell me, for example, that I might not have deburred properly, and what ballpark number would tell me that I did a good job?

I understand that these estimates will depend on the knife (e.g., its steel and heat treatment) and the cutting board surface. I'm using a Boos Block edge grain maple cutting board. The two knives I use are a Shiro Kamo Aogami Super Nakiri and a Tsunehisa Ginsan Nashiji Gyuto. (I know I can expect the Shiro Kamo to have better edge retention than the Tsunehisa—but how many more tomatoes better?)

If you really have no idea what sort of estimate to give in the case of my knives, how about for one of your knives that you've spent time with and have had success sharpening? How long—how many decided tomatoes—after sharpening would you expect it to keep its edge?
 
I normally view tomato’s as a test for a combination of toothiness and sharpness. For really fresh (or just past fresh) ones the toothiness is really what seems to matter to me. A smooth edge just seems to slide over the skin, but my technique could also be terrible.

With that said, if you’re cutting tomato’s in a way you’re satisfied you shouldn’t have issues with anything else, that’s ignoring geometry and how that changes things of course.

Regarding edge retention I’d take everything with a grain of salt. Tomato’s are acidic, and nothing kills a carbon steel edge like acidic ingredients. To what degree depends pretty heavily not only on what steel, but also on the heat treat since different heat treat regimes change how corrosion resistant an alloy is, but most makers don’t really focus on that. You can reduce that by going for a stainless piece, which is all I use for fruit (including tomato’s) since it just feels like wasting steel to have your edge life cut in half by food acids. But unless someone has the exact steel you have, or you’re looking at stainless steels specifically any form of estimates are going to be more of an estimation than normal if you’re looking specifically at high acid ingredients.
 
I would actually sharpen those two knives differently. I prefer a more refined edge on my nakiri and a toothier one on triangles, but that’s because I mostly chop with the nakiri and pull/push/thrust with the triangles. So, the nakiri gets sharpened on SP2k and finished on jnats (but you could just finish on any high grit synthetic stone). And the triangles mostly just stop at the 2k mark with maybe just a deburring on a high grit stone.
 
I keep my knives like razors, I enjoy doing touch ups and the first thing I do when I get a new knife is put my own edge on it, my edges are almost always better than any factory edge. With that being said, I would think I could go through as many tomatoes as I could possibly cut in a day, though I have never tried this. Usually a half a dozen at most, followed by whatever else I am cooking. I never experienced my knives dulling before my eyes or a need to sharpen more than a couple weeks in between touch ups even with hard use. All my knives besides the ones in the kitchen that my wife, kids, and whoever else uses freely are all carbon steel. I am just a home cook so I am not doing hours of prep, if I did, it might be a different story though.

I have the sudden urge to buy 5 dozen tomatoes now, bring the chips, and Ill bring the salsa.
 
If you're cutting lots of tomatoes, I'd definitely recommend using a coarser stone, combined with stainless/semi-stainless steel.

For grit, any stone from about 400 to 2k (I personally think 500-1k is a good sweet spot) that you can get a clean apex off of, would be good.
 
Mike's rec is spot on. I find 1k grit edge on stainless is best.

How the knife go through a tomato is usually a measure of how toothy the edge is. The toothier the easier it is for the edge to saw through the waxy skin. However I think Larrin said too large a teeth also deforms easier mechanically (hitting the board). Tomato is also acidic so it also attacks the edge chemically so the more stainless the better.

The best steel would be PM metals like Magnacut or Vanax. Cruwear also has good rust resistance and wear resistance despite being semi stainless.
AEB-L is reasonably priced and more ubiquitous, it resist acid pretty well but has low edge retention relatively to those steels above.
If you like Japanese avoid white steel (shirogami 1,2,3), aogami super and sg2 is probably your best bet although neither of these are particularly good at resist rust or edge retention.

The best way actually though is to just sharpen your knives frequently. Refreshing toothiness on a sharp edge doesn't take too much time.
 
Wait, isn't R2 pretty good at both corrosion resistance and edge retention? I tend to keep a dedicated Takamura during tomato season. I'm not a pro, not doing industrial volume, but it works for me.
 
Great tomato slayer knives would probably be Takamura SG2 and Kei Kobayashi SG2. Lasers and wear resistant stainless steel.
 
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Great potato slayer knives would probably be Takamura SG2 and Kei Kobayashi SG2. Lasers and wear resistant stainless steel.
Kobayashi 165 petty is my go-to for cutting citrus and not cleaning it until the next day (3:2:1 margaritas will do that) or sharpening it for months. Takes a great toothy edge and holds it.
 
Wait, isn't R2 pretty good at both corrosion resistance and edge retention? I tend to keep a dedicated Takamura during tomato season. I'm not a pro, not doing industrial volume, but it works for me.
I think it depends what your frame of reference is. According to Larrin SG2 is not particular high in toughness, edge retention or stainlessness among stainless steels. But compare to something like white 2 it's definitely going to be much much better. I think it's a fine steel and I own a whole bunch of R2/SG2 knives.
 
I think it depends what your frame of reference is. According to Larrin SG2 is not particular high in toughness, edge retention or stainlessness among stainless steels. But compare to something like white 2 it's definitely going to be much much better. I think it's a fine steel and I own a whole bunch of R2/SG2 knives.
I love a Shibata.

R2 should get an Oscar for best supporting role.
 
For acid, semi-stainless works fine. 4% Cr steels can sit in lemon juice for hours per my tests and still be sharp.

To answer the OP’s question: I think thousands of tomatoes are possible in a wear resistant steel.
 
My best tomato cutters for boxes on boxes of tomato prep are all stainless or semistainless, as mentioned by everyone else. SKD or ginsan on belgian blue.
 
When doing tomatoes with my white2 or blue2 knives, fresh of the stones/strop, high gritt finish... After a handfull of tomatoes you can allready notice that absolute 100% sharpness is degrading a bit. And my Shiro Kamo blue2 is worse in holding the edge with acidic food then my Yoshikane white 2 is. In theorie this should be the other way around.

They will keep sharp (no squishing) for a lot longer, but that ghosting, 0% resistance through tomatoe skin... that's impossible (for me) to keep with carbon steel.
 
This is all really interesting to me. What motivated me to start this thread was the observation my newer Tsunehisa has lost its tomato skin cutting edge twice all the while my Shiro Kamo has, with even more use, been going strong...

I was wondering: is this entirely a function of the superiority of the Shiro Kamo blade over Tsunehisa and the edge retention of AS over Ginsan? Or is it likely that part of this has to do with novice variance, where I managed to do a much better job sharpening the Shiro Kamo than I did the Tsunehisa?

I am now assuming that it is the latter, judging from the recommendations to use stainless (or at least semi-stainless) steels for acidic ingredients (such as tomatoes), and the suggestion that acidic foods will eat at the edge of carbon steels, wearing it away much faster. In fact, it's almost sounding as if the Ginsan Tsunehisa's edge retention should at least be able to rival the AS Shiro Kamo when there's a lot of acidic ingredients (if not outlast it), even though generally the edge retention on a decently heat-treated AS blade should be better than the edge retention on a Ginsan blade...?

I resharpened the Tsunehisa yesterday using a SP1000 and SP2000. Perhaps I should have gone no further than the 1000. The previous times I sharpened it, I went SP1000 to SP2000 and finished on SP4000. Perhaps finishing the Tsunehisa on the SP4000 was the mistake? (That's what I finished the Shiro Kamo on and it has been going strong, even on tomatoes, with a good bit of use.)
 
Yes if you want it to slay tomatoes, staying at 1000 is good to retain the toothiness to bite through the skin. A highly refined edge might be great for sashimi cutting but for tomato it can be counterproductive.

Not sure where you are along the sharpening journey, but when I was a beginner, moving up to the higher grit stones actually made my edge duller rather than sharper. The reason for that is I am actually rounding the apex on the higher grit stones rather than refining it. What I learned is to use lighter pressure and less strokes on the higher grit stones to prevent rounding. Or simply stop at a lower grit, SP2k on its own is usually sufficient for me.

You can try testing the edge by slicing through paper after you are done with each stone to see if the edge is getting sharper or less.
 
Despite my strong preference for simple carbons, I keep a Takamura SG2 Santoku around, mostly for tomatoes. Between the super-thin laser geometry, with perhaps the lowest bevel angle I've ever seen on a stock knife, and the corrosion resistance, it seems to work well on tomatoes for quite a while.
 
This is all really interesting to me. What motivated me to start this thread was the observation my newer Tsunehisa has lost its tomato skin cutting edge twice all the while my Shiro Kamo has, with even more use, been going strong...

I was wondering: is this entirely a function of the superiority of the Shiro Kamo blade over Tsunehisa and the edge retention of AS over Ginsan? Or is it likely that part of this has to do with novice variance, where I managed to do a much better job sharpening the Shiro Kamo than I did the Tsunehisa?

I am now assuming that it is the latter, judging from the recommendations to use stainless (or at least semi-stainless) steels for acidic ingredients (such as tomatoes), and the suggestion that acidic foods will eat at the edge of carbon steels, wearing it away much faster. In fact, it's almost sounding as if the Ginsan Tsunehisa's edge retention should at least be able to rival the AS Shiro Kamo when there's a lot of acidic ingredients (if not outlast it), even though generally the edge retention on a decently heat-treated AS blade should be better than the edge retention on a Ginsan blade...?

I resharpened the Tsunehisa yesterday using a SP1000 and SP2000. Perhaps I should have gone no further than the 1000. The previous times I sharpened it, I went SP1000 to SP2000 and finished on SP4000. Perhaps finishing the Tsunehisa on the SP4000 was the mistake? (That's what I finished the Shiro Kamo on and it has been going strong, even on tomatoes, with a good bit of use.)
I've been having a fun time this whole year with this exact question. I cut a lot of acidic ingredients peppers/onion/garlic/tomatoes and have been running a bunch of experiments on different edge types/finishing regimes to test tooth retention. Big fan of naturals for this type of edge.

I've got a few ginsan and an AEB-L knife that I thought would dominate the skin test. Softer ginsan doesn't hold it's edge/tooth as well as good blue steel (Okubo/Toyama) in my own testing but harder ginsan (S. Tanaka) will keep chugging for a few months of randomized home use when finished on a chosera 3k or below. Not super precise testing because I've got too many knives, spend way too much time on the road, and generally reach for my Okubo first over stainless but even then I've noticed the edge holds its tooth longer than the softer ginsan that gets used less frequently.

So far the best all-round tomato edge I've found is a lower grit washita. Ultra toothy but deburrs easily for a crisp edge because it's so hard. Occasionally I'll do this then a few very light deburrint strokes on a BBW just to clean things up a bit. Hell I've even done shapton glass 120 to BBW for my cheap stainless paring knives/steak knives and that's lasted waaaay longer than any loving multi-stone progression I've given them.

Coticules give me the best initial edge of anything but I noticed AEB-L with that loses it's bite more quickly, so for summer tomato season I keep it at a chosera 800 and BBW finish. That combo works really nicely for my carbon cleavers too, shootout tostadas for that idea.

JKI sent me back my okubo gyuto with an edge from their vitrified diamond 6k stone that has lasted so long through heavy use it has made me put that stone on my wishlist lol.

I've stopped stropping and just do a few pulls through a wine cork before my final deburring strokes to break off any micro burrs that I've missed. That has been helpful on my low grit-finished knives.
 
I've been having a fun time this whole year with this exact question. I cut a lot of acidic ingredients peppers/onion/garlic/tomatoes and have been running a bunch of experiments on different edge types/finishing regimes to test tooth retention. Big fan of naturals for this type of edge.

I've got a few ginsan and an AEB-L knife that I thought would dominate the skin test. Softer ginsan doesn't hold it's edge/tooth as well as good blue steel (Okubo/Toyama) in my own testing but harder ginsan (S. Tanaka) will keep chugging for a few months of randomized home use when finished on a chosera 3k or below. Not super precise testing because I've got too many knives, spend way too much time on the road, and generally reach for my Okubo first over stainless but even then I've noticed the edge holds its tooth longer than the softer ginsan that gets used less frequently.

So far the best all-round tomato edge I've found is a lower grit washita. Ultra toothy but deburrs easily for a crisp edge because it's so hard. Occasionally I'll do this then a few very light deburrint strokes on a BBW just to clean things up a bit. Hell I've even done shapton glass 120 to BBW for my cheap stainless paring knives/steak knives and that's lasted waaaay longer than any loving multi-stone progression I've given them.

Coticules give me the best initial edge of anything but I noticed AEB-L with that loses it's bite more quickly, so for summer tomato season I keep it at a chosera 800 and BBW finish. That combo works really nicely for my carbon cleavers too, shootout tostadas for that idea.

JKI sent me back my okubo gyuto with an edge from their vitrified diamond 6k stone that has lasted so long through heavy use it has made me put that stone on my wishlist lol.

I've stopped stropping and just do a few pulls through a wine cork before my final deburring strokes to break off any micro burrs that I've missed. That has been helpful on my low grit-finished knives.
Try an India fine and unloaded strop (paper, towel, etc.).
 
I can't help but play the "Old Line Cook" advocate here and mention that, like with food release when cutting potatoes, this is a problem that is mostly solved most of the time through technique adjustment. Using the tip of the knife more than the belly and doing lots of draw cuts. Sure it can be more satisfying to chase that ghosting feeling, but you can use almost any knife in any condition to make pico de gallo as demonstrated millions of times per day in homes and restaurants around the world.
 
Interesting reading the above. I would have thought ginsan would be much more wear resistant than blue 2 or blue super.
My most used knife for tomatoes is a hap40 santoku, or a k390 petty. I don’t think either steel is dulled by acid and they can hold a biting edge a long time.
 
The thing for me is, a relative course edge might be better for tomatoes. But i like a higher finish for almost everything but tomatoes (maybe peppers).
So, do I finish my knive for the 5% food or for the 95%.

Switching knives during a prep is an option. But i like all my knives the have a higher gritt finish 😅
Just because...
 
Interesting reading the above. I would have thought ginsan would be much more wear resistant than blue 2 or blue super.
My most used knife for tomatoes is a hap40 santoku, or a k390 petty. I don’t think either steel is dulled by acid and they can hold a biting edge a long time.
There is more to it than just steel. On its own ginsan is more wear resistant than blue 2 or blue super, but I doubt this is what is happening when comparing “soft” ginsan vs very hard blue steels. More than likely the difference described is due to sharpening and geometry differences. Soft ginsan is probably not de-burred as well as harder steels. It is also very likely that it loses the edge due to deformation rather than wear, so because of this we see these weird results that in theory shouldn’t happen. It is also very possible that the geometry of the different knives is different enough to show these unexpected results.
 
The thing for me is, a relative course edge might be better for tomatoes. But i like a higher finish for almost everything but tomatoes (maybe peppers).
So, do I finish my knive for the 5% food or for the 95%.

Switching knives during a prep is an option. But i like all my knives the have a higher gritt finish 😅
Just because...
Finish however you like and that works for most of your stuff, just do what @stringer suggested when doing tomatoes and you’ll be fine. We tend to try to find wrong solutions to incorrect problems. No doubt hard, acute, wear resistant and corrosion resistant edge at reasonably low grid will work great on tomatoes, but so will many others.
 
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