Fixed blade pocket carry?

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SeattleBen

SeattleBen

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Let's say it's legal to carry a fixed blade here where I live as long as it's 3 1/2 inches. I'm carrying it for work and want to fit it in my back pocket. I'd like to keep it not much more than 7 inches total say 7 1/2 total.

I know that this isn't directly the right forum for this but it's the knife forum that I frequent so if I can get the info here that's preferable. I already carry a folder but my work is dirty. Like really really dirty and don't want to keep dealing with cleaning a folder.

I'd like to keep it around a hundred but I'm flexible somewhat and it's close to my birthday.

For reference I'm kind of looking at these guys.

https://ontarioknife.com/products/rat-3-black-sheath?_pos=10&_sid=02de369e9&_ss=r
https://civilware.com/collections/knives/products/packer-fixed-blade-black
Mods, if this isn't proper or in the right place, I'm sorry. Blow it up or move it as you see fit.
 
I have not heard of a CIVILWARE Packer. Has the company been around very long? Where are they made?

There are 2 companies that make the RAT3 knife. Either one is a well-established knife company.
 
Civilware is a pro skater and outdoor guy. I'm sure there are better knives out there and a quick internet search turns up varied reports on the civilware but at $75 it's pretty close to what I want size wise. Who else makes the rat3?
 
The other knife company is the Randall's knife company. They make a bunch of high-end knives. They split many years ago. This is the way I remember it.

I have a RAT3 in D2 steel.
IMG_0378.jpg
 
I would go for something stainless for pocket carry. Elmax, S35VN, or CPM154 would be my choice of steels.
 
I've tried pocket-carrying small fixed blades in hard sheaths before, and I was surprised how much of a PITA they are... They really aren't one-hand-accessible/stowable blades anymore if carried that way, and require both hands to sheath/unsheathe. They really do need to be carried on a wide belt, with a sturdy Kydex sheath and a decent amount of handle protruding for anything close to a convenient draw/replacement. It's actually even worse for neck-knives...

If you work in such a filthy environment, my suggestion would be to try out something cheap first, like a Mora Eldris (Get the normal one with the differential grind; not the new 'Lite' version with the full-scandi. The knife and sheath are HIGHLY cleanable.), or a Mora Classic #1/0 (Better for craft, worse for EDC than the regular Eldris. Some dirt trapping potential around the tang, too.). Both are the right size, and cheap enough that you can learn whether or not this style of carry works for you. If you do, there are various options to upgrade to if you want more performance, depending upon the sort of cutting you want to do... Maybe something like the Spyderco Enuff doesn't blow your budget away too much? You can also get some pretty special steels if you go with a Mule Team for very little money, if you're prepared to fit your own handle/sheath.

If a fixed blade isn't convenient enough, looking for an open-construction folder (With standoffs between the scales, and stainless materials... I don't know how abrasive the dirt in your work is. ) that can be thoroughly cleaned and lubed without disassembly might be a better solution... Think Spyderco Caribbean (If you need massive stain-resistance. Nearly double your price, though.), Paramilitary 2, or even a Spyderco Para 3 Lightweight (More inline with your budget.) is open and simple enough that it shouldn't be a huge issue to hose it out without disassembly. Some Kizers (Like the Sheepdog), also fall into that sort of price range... Maybe a drop or quick spritz of lube (Ballistol, WD40, etc. Something that plays okay around water.) in the joint at the end of the day after washing could do the trick.

Hope this helps.
 
One thing about knives is that the "nicer" the handle material, the less I want to get it seriously dirty. A knife with a synthetic hand be it kraton, thermorun or whatever can be just thrown into a bucker of water. In addition as these knives usually use a hidden tang they are extremely light for their size.
I have had many Cold Steel knives among the 200 or so I had collected at one point, and having put the Master Hunter to use over many deer seasons decades ago, I can attest to CS's ruggedness.
If I were going to carry a fixed for work and expect it to get very dirty, and wanted under $100, I would consider the Pendelton Hunter in regular (3.5 in) and Mini (3in). They used to be offered in VG1 but the latest ones I believe are offered in Aus10 and 3V.
PHun3V.jpg
PhunAus10.jpg
 
Steampunk said:
I've tried pocket-carrying small fixed blades in hard sheaths before, and I was surprised how much of a PITA they are... They really aren't one-hand-accessible/stowable blades anymore if carried that way, and require both hands to sheath/unsheathe. They really do need to be carried on a wide belt, with a sturdy Kydex sheath and a decent amount of handle protruding for anything close to a convenient draw/replacement. It's actually even worse for neck-knives...
Click to expand...

My RAT3 shown above draws pretty easy with one hand. If you put it on your back side then it is out of the way. It does need to clip to something.
 
I work as an electrician that mostly does signal work and street lighting. So I'm in and out of ditches as well as dealing with a fair amount of concrete to clarify the dirt level. Also thank you to everyone.
 
Most cutting is poly line and nylon mule tape. With the occasional foray into cutting the sheath on copper wire. So it should be robust. Weight isn't too important but not too interested in too heavy. Don't care if I need to sharpen, for reference I currently beat up a griptilian.
 
I agree that belt carry is best.

The LT Wright Patriot with either the leather or Kydex sheath would be a good fit here I believe. I might have some concern about sheath retention if you're rolling around much.

For the kind of work you're describing, handle comfort should reign supreme. I'm a huge Spyderco fan but the truth is, in hard use, squeezing down on the handles for a while, your hand will hurt with many of their offerings.
 
I don't wear a belt, I wear suspenders. Also I don't think I'm technically allowed, workwise, to carry one. Though if it was in a pocket other than for use nobody would say a thing. Which is to say it doesn't need to be super cozy in hand.

Again thank you all for your help.
 
On the weekends when I'm working in the yard I have been a little obsessed over my Becker BK62 Kephart. I typically just slip it into my pocket vs. putting it on my belt. Nice thin profile and an excellent overall shape.
 
applepieforbreakfast said:
Have you tried the Klein knives?

Not sure what size wire/cable you're working with, but the Cable Splicer's works well for low voltage, residential, and service cable in a pinch.
I imagine the hook knives would work better for the larger stuff.

If you're not into that, I'd grab a stainless Mora, or one of these with G10 handles.
Click to expand...

Few people I work with use those. They aren't really to my liking and really this isn't for skinning wire except in a pinch. Mostly I'm getting into wire no greater than #2 but do occasionally get into much larger 250/500s. Also pretty common in signal work is to deal with a lot of 3-10 wire cabling. You a sparky too?
 
Get a small fixed blade and a sheath with a UtiliClip. It clips very tight to pants, no belt needed. You can clip it in your pocket or even IWB and no one will know it's there.
 
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