Honyaki restoration project - Going to document my journey

[mozg31337]

It was awesome to read this thread! Congratulations on its completion and Kudos for sharing it with us. I also have a honyaki done in mirror polish by Watanabe. It's Blue #2 steel and it had a fair share of use over the years. The blade is awesome and hasn't yet been put on stones! I've been stropping it after almost every use and it still cuts like a dream. It's not a regular use knife, but still gets to use a fair share.
I was thinking of repolishing it to the mirror again and perhaps giving a few etches cycles to bring up the hamon. Watanabe/Toyama doesn't make a wavy hamon like some smiths do, but I would still like to see if I could bring up the contrast even more.

I have previously done a few bevels and found that the sandpaper from about 80-3K grit does the quickest job for me. I am using the 3M pretty expensive paper, but it last a lot more than the cheap eBay stuff and also it tend to have a more uniform scratch pattern. Perhaps I will stick to it if it will be able to handle the hard blue #3 tempered to around 66-67 HRC.

If I will every be brave to start the project, I will certainly create a new thread and would love to get some help from you guys to guide me.

 

[KasumiJLA]

@mozg31337 thanks for your kind words, it was a pleasure to share the process. Sharing is caring, especially in the polishing community, because that thing can be frustrating

If you already polished some knives and you have the right tool, I don't think you can harm your knife. It's a looooong process and it's tedious as hell but you will be rewarded with a lot of joy after! You are right, good sandpaper make a difference. I tried some Amazon in the past but now I only use 3M. It's faster, more uniform and the abrasive doesn't worn out that fast compared to a cheap one.

It would be cool to see a new thread about it! I really like to follow a polishing project

 

[Blank Blades.]

It was awesome to read this thread! Congratulations on its completion and Kudos for sharing it with us. I also have a honyaki done in mirror polish by Watanabe. It's Blue #2 steel and it had a fair share of use over the years. The blade is awesome and hasn't yet been put on stones! I've been stropping it after almost every use and it still cuts like a dream. It's not a regular use knife, but still gets to use a fair share.
I was thinking of repolishing it to the mirror again and perhaps giving a few etches cycles to bring up the hamon. Watanabe/Toyama doesn't make a wavy hamon like some smiths do, but I would still like to see if I could bring up the contrast even more.

I have previously done a few bevels and found that the sandpaper from about 80-3K grit does the quickest job for me. I am using the 3M pretty expensive paper, but it last a lot more than the cheap eBay stuff and also it tend to have a more uniform scratch pattern. Perhaps I will stick to it if it will be able to handle the hard blue #3 tempered to around 66-67 HRC.

If I will every be brave to start the project, I will certainly create a new thread and would love to get some help from you guys to guide me.

I always recommend diamond microfinishing film. Normally for high mc carbide stuff. But its also usefull for very hard simple steels. Sometimes those can be just as hard to polish once you start getting up in the grit rating. Then you can switch over to aluminum oxide, or silicon carbide abrasives toward the end of the polishing.

Btw thank you for mentioning the watanabe honyaki. I googled it. And made up my mind that I'm going to make a honyaki with this 52100 I have that has similar banding to what I see on those. I was already considering it. But now I'm sure I will.

 

[mozg31337]

I always recommend diamond microfinishing film. Normally for high mc carbide stuff. But its also usefull for very hard simple steels. Sometimes those can be just as hard to polish once you start getting up in the grit rating. Then you can switch over to aluminum oxide, or silicon carbide abrasives toward the end of the polishing.

Btw thank you for mentioning the watanabe honyaki. I googled it. And made up my mind that I'm going to make a honyaki with this 52100 I have that has similar banding to what I see on those. I was already considering it. But now I'm sure I will.

What progression would you use the diamond micro finishing film and what kind of grits are available? Do you mind sending a few links to the product of your choice?

 

[Ikonaka]

I always recommend diamond microfinishing film. Normally for high mc carbide stuff. But its also usefull for very hard simple steels. Sometimes those can be just as hard to polish once you start getting up in the grit rating. Then you can switch over to aluminum oxide, or silicon carbide abrasives toward the end of the polishing.

Btw thank you for mentioning the watanabe honyaki. I googled it. And made up my mind that I'm going to make a honyaki with this 52100 I have that has similar banding to what I see on those. I was already considering it. But now I'm sure I will.

Can't wait to see that! I love this inside baseball stuff about sharpening, so thanks for sharing your hard won knowledge, all!

 

[Blank Blades.]

What progression would you use the diamond micro finishing film and what kind of grits are available? Do you mind sending a few links to the product of your choice?

3M (TM) Diamond Lapping Microfinishing Film 3 inches x 8 Inches PSA (Pressure Sensitive Adhesive) Backing (125 micron / 120 grit) https://a.co/d/aB1tQlD

They have these ones all the way up to .1 micron in these. Which are the name brand 3m ones.

8 Variety Grits (0.5，1,3, 9, 15, 30,45 and 60 microns) Diamond Lapping Microfinishing Film 5 inch (PSA) https://a.co/d/8Bzyi0c

Also they have these that go up to .5 micron. Which I decided to try not too long ago. They are basically off brand ones. But they seems to perform the same as the 3m.

For the progression. I think generally just follow the available grits, and it should work pretty well. Then you can use something like these. After

3M Tri-M-ITE Wet & Dry Polishing Abrasive Paper 400-8,000 A/O Assorted 6 Sheets (2E) Amazon.com

Or these.

Micro-Mesh 3 x 4 Soft Touch Pads https://a.co/d/iejj4wt

 

[mozg31337]

Thanks! I will check them out. Are these durable? Similar lifetime as a sending paper?

 

[Blank Blades.]

Thanks! I will check them out. Are these durable? Similar lifetime as a sending paper?

They last longer for sure.

They don't last forever. But if you are using them on just hardened normal steel, they last a lot longer than sandpaper.

 

[KasumiJLA]

This is the last update for this project. I wanted to refresh the surface and see how the steel would react after all that patina. I have used this knife daily since I finished it and obviously small scratches have appeared, which is normal. It wasn't to create a museum piece, I wanted this knife to be beautiful but above all useful!

I then reset the surface, etched the knife again and repolished with uchigumori powder. The finish no longer has as much details in the steel but I find this finish even more beautiful. The contrast is magnificent and the hamon line shines like never before. Really happy about it and it was again a fun time redoing it.

I have a new honyaki knife incoming this week () to work with! I will not documenting the process but I will of course post some pictures on KKF. Thank you for reading me and for accompanying me on this beautiful adventure. I learned so much it's crazy...


This is the WONDERFUL patina after 5 meals prep


A new handle and the patina before refreshing the finish


This is the result of a brand new etch and polish


Yummy!


With the right light, It looks like the hamon is emitting light. It's hard to catch on photo but it's really beautiful to play with different angle and appreciate the show. If I'm right, I think there's a lot of nie and less nioi? Someone can correct me if I'm wrong about it!

 

[mozg31337]

This is the last update for this project. I wanted to refresh the surface and see how the steel would react after all that patina. I have used this knife daily since I finished it and obviously small scratches have appeared, which is normal. It wasn't to create a museum piece, I wanted this knife to be beautiful but above all useful!

I then reset the surface, etched the knife again and repolished with uchigumori powder. The finish no longer has as much details in the steel but I find this finish even more beautiful. The contrast is magnificent and the hamon line shines like never before. Really happy about it and it was again a fun time redoing it.

I have a new honyaki knife incoming this week () to work with! I will not documenting the process but I will of course post some pictures on KKF. Thank you for reading me and for accompanying me on this beautiful adventure. I learned so much it's crazy...

View attachment 269041
This is the WONDERFUL patina after 5 meals prep

View attachment 269042
A new handle and the patina before refreshing the finish

View attachment 269039
This is the result of a brand new etch and polish

View attachment 269040
Yummy!

View attachment 269043
With the right light, It looks like the hamon is emitting light. It's hard to catch on photo but it's really beautiful to play with different angle and appreciate the show. If I'm right, I think there's a lot of nie and less nioi? Someone can correct me if I'm wrong about it!

That looks super awesome!

 

[KasumiJLA]

That looks super awesome!

Thanks buddy!

 

[mozg31337]

I am still in the process of starting my Watanabe Honyaki gyuto sharpening / chip removal and returning the mirror polish. It would be a shame to loose a lovely blue patina on the blade. Perhaps that’s what keeping me away from starting )))

 

[KasumiJLA]

I am still in the process of starting my Watanabe Honyaki gyuto sharpening / chip removal and returning the mirror polish. It would be a shame to loose a lovely blue patina on the blade. Perhaps that’s what keeping me away from starting )))

You gonna build another one in no time, don't worry too much about it!