Howto remove 2cm from the tip of my Denka?

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Option 1
Keep it and buy a Dalstrong Kirktsuke. In contrast to many Japanese specialty knives, the Kiritsuke is called such do to its versatility and that after having mastered all cooking skills this knife can be used for most, if not all, cooking chores. ***Don’t let the name intimidate you though.*** This knife is extremely user friendly and will quickly become your favorite knife in the kitchen. The Ultimate Chef's Knife: A Dalstrong culinary revolution combining outstanding and craftsmanship, cutting-edge breakthrough technology, awe-inspiring design. Unrivaled Performance: Ruthlessly sharp blade hand finished to a mirror polish at 8-12° using the traditional 3-step Honbazuke method. Nitrogen cooled for enhanced harness, flexibility and corrosion resistance. Full tang and triple riveted. An ultra sharp AUS-10V Japanese super steel rated at 62+ Rockwell hardness: extraordinary performance and edge retention. Dalstrong's stunning 'tsunami-rose' genuine Damascus: 67 layers of high-carbon stainless steel, cleans easily. You can’t beat 67 layers!!!

Option 2
Lend your knife to a careless relative. Make sure to tell them your knife has both extreme monetary and sentimental value, “but I trust you”.
After a week of opening cans, 1cm will be taken off the tip with no effort on your part. Check after one week, reassure your relative, “you broke the tip off?? Ha, I couldn’t even tell. LOL.” After another week you should be good. Just be careful not to leave it there too long.
 
Thanks for your funny input.

After sleeping on it, that tip is probably not such a good fit for this denka's profile. Guess I won't be able to turn this into a flatter one while keeping it looking good. So for now I'm abandoning that idea and instead will keep working on the flattening - already looks better imo - and heavy thinning thereafter.

The nice thing about the Toyama type tip, along with the flatter profile, is that the blade is still tall close to the tip so it can rest on my large fingers comfortably, while the steep decline on the tip allows for some - enjoyable - close contact tip work and doesn't get in the line of sight.

But hey, I only got 3 knives, what do I know..
 
konsuke said:
Thanks for your funny input.

After sleeping on it, that tip is probably not such a good fit for this denka's profile. Guess I won't be able to turn this into a flatter one while keeping it looking good. So for now I'm abandoning that idea and instead will keep working on the flattening - already looks better imo - and heavy thinning thereafter.

The nice thing about the Toyama type tip, along with the flatter profile, is that the blade is still tall close to the tip so it can rest on my large fingers comfortably, while the steep decline on the tip allows for some - enjoyable - close contact tip work and doesn't get in the line of sight.

But hey, I only got 3 knives, what do I know..
Click to expand...
Thin the blade road, raise the shinogi line a few mm and it will be a superlative cutter. Guaranteed
 
Don´t know what you paid but Denka´s ain´t cheap.
So you could just spend a little more and get it done by @martinhuber for example? (He is in austria)
There are many other bladesmiths in europe who would do the job for you.
Hate to discourage but it sounds like a job for the pros, especially if you want it to look good ;-)
 
Yeah am considering my next knife to be from an Austrian maker, but now I'm having fun with thinning. So far only used a 220 to grind the base down. Still a lot of work to do.

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There are also hand held belt grinders like this, which can be put upside down on a table to make them stationary. I used one for make a handle and borrowed it from a local tools library, so maybe renting this for a day could be an option.
 

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Looks like you’ve put the sides of the knife on the stone rather than the bevels? What are you looking to achieve?
To thin you work the bevels looking to move the shoulder higher. With your approach the thickness behind the edge will stay the same
 
@TB_London Thanks. I started with working on the primary bevel, to get a flatter profile, which I think worked, will finish up later with the details. Now I wanted to thin the sides, because I didn't fancy TF's Kurouchi finish and also see by how much I could reduce the weight. So far lost only 3.2 grams. Next I thought, I'm gonna clean those sides up with a 400 Atoma and a 1000 Naniwa Pro sequence, and after that start working on thinning/fixing the secondary bevel, to get a higher and consistent shinogi line, as suggested by @Corradobrit1 . Makes "sense"?
 
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I’d sharpie the shape you want on it and send a pic to elwin at rangelrooij. You said you live in Europe? He can do all sorts of grinding quickly and professionally so he’s who I’d ask. Maybe he’s a bit busy but a message with a picture will get you a response normally.
 
konsuke said:
Thanks for your funny input.

After sleeping on it, that tip is probably not such a good fit for this denka's profile. Guess I won't be able to turn this into a flatter one while keeping it looking good. So for now I'm abandoning that idea and instead will keep working on the flattening - already looks better imo - and heavy thinning thereafter.

The nice thing about the Toyama type tip, along with the flatter profile, is that the blade is still tall close to the tip so it can rest on my large fingers comfortably, while the steep decline on the tip allows for some - enjoyable - close contact tip work and doesn't get in the line of sight.

But hey, I only got 3 knives, what do I know..
Click to expand...
A flat profile and no tip that gets in the line of sight? You could turn it into a Nakiri! In any case, we like fun projects here, don’t let anyone stop you. Keep posting pictures of the work. And if you need some inspiration these two threads by the modification king are gold:
https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/shig-kasumi-diy.48364/https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/shigefusa-santoku-re-profile-to-funayuki.45081/:D
 
konsuke said:
@TB_London Thanks. I started with working on the primary bevel, to get a flatter profile, which I think worked, will finish up later with the details. Now I wanted to thin the sides, because I didn't fancy TF's Kurouchi finish and also see by how much I could reduce the weight. So far lost only 3.2 grams. Next I thought, I'm gonna clean those sides up with a 400 Atoma and a 1000 Naniwa Pro sequence, and after that start working on thinning/fixing the secondary bevel, to get a higher and consistent shinogi line, as suggested by @Corradobrit1 . Makes "sense"?
Click to expand...
FYI, I think you have the terms “primary” and “secondary” bevel switched. The secondary bevel is the edge bevel, the one that you sharpen. The primary bevel is the one that begins at the shinogi (on this knife). If you’re really wanting to change the profile (the shape of the cutting edge), a faster way to do it would be to place the actual cutting edge on the stone as if you were trying to cut the stone in half along its length. And maybe wear ear plugs just so you don’t have to hear the knife screaming out in protest
 
Up_dog128 said:
FYI, I think you have the terms “primary” and “secondary” bevel switched. The secondary bevel is the edge bevel, the one that you sharpen. The primary bevel is the one that begins at the shinogi (on this knife). If you’re really wanting to change the profile (the shape of the cutting edge), a faster way to do it would be to place the actual cutting edge on the stone as if you were trying to cut the stone in half along its length. And maybe wear ear plugs just so you don’t have to hear the knife screaming out in protest
Click to expand...
Thanks, got confused. You mean holding it like when cutting, and just going back and forth on the side of a 220? That will destroy secondary and parts of the primary bevel as well, right? Just checkin, sounds scary..

I will keep posting updates, but it may take a while due to other engagements. Plus, yesterday I went out of towels trying to catch the sediments from the Shapton 220 (is it ok to just throw them into the washing machine?) and water needed to lubricant the Atoma. I need a sink bridge to contain this. Got the Suehiro one used by Jon, but it's too short for this sink.

Started working on raising and evening out the the shinogi. Atoma 400 seemed to slow (or it was just because I started working at 90deg because I wnated to keep the vertical scratch pattern) so moved back to the Shapton 220 - now wish I had something more coarse. There is one stubborn spot that resists going up, but I think I'm close to finishing on the left side. Seems impossible to get this straight by hand. Not much to see, but here you go:

20231126_082654.jpg
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Btw. how much thinner could I grind down the sides before it starts getting brittle you think? Probably would not be able to get this as thin as my Toyama?

Side note: seem to have gotton a metal splinter into the tip of one finger. Didn't realize this could get dangerous.
 
konsuke said:
Thanks, got confused. You mean holding it like when cutting, and just going back and forth on the side of a 220? That will destroy secondary and parts of the primary bevel as well, right? Just checkin, sounds scary..

I will keep posting updates, but it may take a while due to other engagements. Plus, yesterday I went out of towels trying to catch the sediments from the Shapton 220 (is it ok to just throw them into the washing machine?) and water needed to lubricant the Atoma. I need a sink bridge to contain this. Got the Suehiro one used by Jon, but it's too short for this sink.

Started working on raising and evening out the the shinogi. Atoma 400 seemed to slow (or it was just because I started working at 90deg because I wnated to keep the vertical scratch pattern) so moved back to the Shapton 220 - now wish I had something more coarse. There is one stubborn spot that resists going up, but I think I'm close to finishing on the left side. Seems impossible to get this straight by hand. Not much to see, but here you go:

View attachment 284412View attachment 284413View attachment 284414

Btw. how much thinner could I grind down the sides before it starts getting brittle you think? Probably would not be able to get this as thin as my Toyama?

Side note: seem to have gotton a metal splinter into the tip of one finger. Didn't realize this could get dangerous.
Click to expand...
If you want to get the Shinogi consistent, you need to level out the bevels. It doesn’t seem like you removed a lot of metal. There’s still many high and low spots and it will take a long time to do that. Shapton 220 is good to get a crisp shinogi line, but for thinning I’d go for something coarser such as a suehiro debado 180. And if you grind it well, it can be thinner than a toyama without getting brittle, that’s one of the merits of aogami super.
 
konsuke said:
Thanks, got confused. You mean holding it like when cutting, and just going back and forth on the side of a 220? That will destroy secondary and parts of the primary bevel as well, right? Just checkin, sounds scary..

I will keep posting updates, but it may take a while due to other engagements. Plus, yesterday I went out of towels trying to catch the sediments from the Shapton 220 (is it ok to just throw them into the washing machine?) and water needed to lubricant the Atoma. I need a sink bridge to contain this. Got the Suehiro one used by Jon, but it's too short for this sink.

Started working on raising and evening out the the shinogi. Atoma 400 seemed to slow (or it was just because I started working at 90deg because I wnated to keep the vertical scratch pattern) so moved back to the Shapton 220 - now wish I had something more coarse. There is one stubborn spot that resists going up, but I think I'm close to finishing on the left side. Seems impossible to get this straight by hand. Not much to see, but here you go:

View attachment 284412View attachment 284413View attachment 284414

Btw. how much thinner could I grind down the sides before it starts getting brittle you think? Probably would not be able to get this as thin as my Toyama?

Side note: seem to have gotton a metal splinter into the tip of one finger. Didn't realize this could get dangerous.
Click to expand...
Got to admire the dedication. SS is the worst to work on. Don't give up. We're rooting for you.
 
EShin said:
If you want to get the Shinogi consistent, you need to level out the bevels. It doesn’t seem like you removed a lot of metal. There’s still many high and low spots and it will take a long time to do that. Shapton 220 is good to get a crisp shinogi line, but for thinning I’d go for something coarser such as a suehiro debado 180. And if you grind it well, it can be thinner than a toyama without getting brittle, that’s one of the merits of aogami super.
Click to expand...
Thank you. Would a Shapton Glass 120 work as well, instead of the Suehiro debado 180? Ordered a ld-21
 
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