It wouldn't do for me to live near any of the knife shops...
Indeed.
It wouldn't do for me to live near any of the knife shops...
It’s not good. And I haven’t even been to Korin yet.It wouldn't do for me to live near any of the knife shops...
As you probably gathered from the other responses sharpening preferences vary, and there's a lot of options that can all be valid. If you care about budget the strop is the thing you can cheap out on the most; cardboard, cereal package, old piece of leather, or even doing it on stones or newspaper can all work.1) Is this a good plan for periodic sharpening?
Arashiyama 1000 -> Chosera Pro 3000 -> Shapton 8000 -> CKTG Bovine Strop with green compound
Looking at purchasing the Arashiyama and Chosera (this is the new version without the wooden base). Bought the Shapton several weeks back. It is like glass.
2) How about right out of the box? Do you first test it out or do you automatically touch it with say the Shapton 8000?
3) How often do you sharpen/strop? How often do you strop only?
Any advice for a newbie would be greatly appreciated?
Both Masamoto and Sukenari are sold both by K&S and JCK, and also by plenty of other vendors. These knives are all.... extremely different though. It would help if you had some idea of what you're looking for in a knife, because these are essentially apples and oranges.Looking at a Masamoto KS and Sukenari HAP40 from Burrfection, a Kato SG2 from CKTG, a Saji B2 from Sugi Cutlery and a Makoto Kurosaki AS from Carbon Knife. All sold out. Patience is important in this hobby.
Though I agree the K&S handles are awesome I'm not sure I'd consider an ebony handle on a KS an upgrade. Mine is relatively light, and I don't think an ebony handle would improve the balance. The original handles don't exactly win top marks for looks and fancyness (they feel a bit rough to the touch), but they are actually really comfortable and practical in usage.Lots of knives are out of stock since covid broke the world.
These seem to be in Stock at KnS. KnS is a reputable vendor who happens to be a forum sponsor. Great range of handle upgrades if you ask, as well. I especially love the new heart shaped handles with the tapered ferrule.
https://www.knivesandstones.com.au/...s-gyuto-240-mm-ks3124-with-saya-black-ferrule
https://www.knivesandstones.com.au/...yoshimi-kato-kintaro-sg2-r2-k-tip-gyuto-240mm
When comparing prices, note that the Aussie micro dollar is only worth 70ish US cents and overseas buyers don't need to pay GST (VAT).
Their US site even seems to have a KS special with an ebony handle:
https://knivesandstones.us/collecti...o-sohonten-ks-gyuto-240-mm-ks3124-k-s-special
The main problem is that he isn't an expert.Ryky of Burrfection swears by the Cerax 1000, Chosera 3000 and Shapton 8000. Maybe I put too much confidence into one “expert.”
Honestly white steel really isn't all that reactive at all. Whenever people complain about reactivity on white steel knives it's usually the cladding that's the problem. And especially on something like a honesuki reactivity is a non-issue IMO.Been eyeing a 150mm honesuki from Goko (white 1 - screaming sharp but very reactive (keep your towel handy)). I am looking to own at least one of each major type of knife (gyuto (many of these), santoku, bunka, nakiri, petty, sujuhiki and at least one single bevel ???). Anyways, SKS and District Cutlery both offer it and the 240mm gyuto. But the price of the hone’ is like 90% of the price of the gyuto for like half the knife. At SKS, the price of the 210mm gyuto is actually less than the hone’. ***? Would like the hone’ but the gyuto seems like the better investment with this line. Leaning towards maybe another hone’ later. What do you guys think and any suggestions on a carbon honesuki <$300?
Skipped over this one.So it sounds like I basically wasted $60 on my Shap8000. I am looking at a 1000 and 3000. Do you guys recommend Arashiyama or Cerax as my 1000 and Chosera as my 3000?
For what it's worth, technique is more important than the stones,....
You can also tryAre there any handle shops taking orders for custom handles/blades? I would order a blade from a knife shop and then ship to this handle maker which would custom make a handle, attach and ship back to me. Is this a thing? An idea would be a rainbow dammy with a purpleheart/nickel or brass handle. Just an idea.
I don't use fine sandpaper, but rinse with lots of hot water, no soap, wipe with a lot pressure — the linen towel will turn orange /brown, repeat rinsing and wiping until no more stain comes off. Fun to see the colour changing under the tap. Last rinsing with soap to neutralise the acidity.Breaking in a highly reactive (white 1 or 2) knife - cooked or raw protein like chicken (blue/purple patina) before acidic veggies like onions, tomatoes or citrus (orange/brown patina). Right?
First white knife experienced an orange patina with an onion. I used 10,000 grit sandpaper to remove most but not all. Want to build a slow patina.
If you are portioning meat, you can save some of the cut off scraps before u toss em. Rub the meat all over the blade, let it sit for a few minutes, rinse it off with hot water, and repeat a few times.Breaking in a highly reactive (white 1 or 2) knife - cooked or raw protein like chicken (blue/purple patina) before acidic veggies like onions, tomatoes or citrus (orange/brown patina). Right?
First white knife experienced an orange patina with an onion. I used 10,000 grit sandpaper to remove most but not all. Want to build a slow patina.
With a new knife, I only clean immediately the very edge by cutting in a piece of cork or a towel's seem and wait before cleaning the entire blade after rinsing with a lot of the hottest water.If you are portioning meat, you can save some of the cut off scraps before u toss em. Rub the meat all over the blade, let it sit for a few minutes, rinse it off with hot water, and repeat a few times.
Haven't used any stainless core san-mai, so I can't compare. Noticed with Hiromoto AS sharpened for others how much the feeling changed, depending on whether there was only a few millimetres of core visible, or a much larger part after heavy thinning and removal of a lot of the soft stainless cladding.I think I'm the only one really complaining about it. I can totally understand if other people don't mind it at all.
I'm not sure your theory holds up... both my Takamura and my Yoshikane are very thin behind the edge, yet the Takamura feels far more mushy than the Yoshi. And both feel different from a monosteel. And so do other san-mai knives that aren't so thin.
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