Citizen Snips
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*double post
Or should you pay careful attention to the tip area to try and "raise" the shinogi a little more in this area to keep the geometry of the knife closer to what it was when the knife was new?
I've a question more so than a critique, and this might require Jon or Dave to answer. I've noticed both in a lot of peoples refurbs as well as in yanagis that haven't needed a refurb so much as have has just been used up after years of work the blade road near the tip no longer flows quite right, or at least not like it did when the knife was new. Is this just a function of using the knife up? Or should you pay careful attention to the tip area to try and "raise" the shinogi a little more in this area to keep the geometry of the knife closer to what it was when the knife was new?
To clarify, on your friend's knife - as well as most older yanagis I have seen - the blade road tapers from the heel to the tip, where as in a new knife the blade road tends to stay even and "flow" better through the tip region. The edge profile of the knife (at least from what I can see - I'm not what I would call an expert on yanagis) seems right, but the blade road itself seems to thin a little near the tip, which in my head means the knife is thicker at the tip than it would have been new. Is this something that is just natural from correct sharpening of the knife, or should I adjust the way I'm sharpening my knife to try and maintain the original shape, which I think would require more work in the tip area, particularly in the area of the shinogi itself?
IMO it's very important to maintain the height of the blade road grind from heal to tip as the knife is sharpened. If at all possible repairs should be made with this in mind and correct if necessary. I try to make every effort to fix this on each knife I sharpen but I've had a couple of major restoration jobs where it was impossible to fix as the steel just wasn't there to work with.
ya it was my first resto job and it was quite a hard one to start out with. as you can see its a little messed up in some places still but i feel as though the owner will be happy with the work it got. i could probably spend another 10 hours and still have work to do but like i said in previous posts, spending all that time could just get him a new knife. i know he will be happy and for me it was just a starting stone to restorations that a lot of people have been asking me about.
ya it was my first resto job and it was quite a hard one to start out with. as you can see its a little messed up in some places still but i feel as though the owner will be happy with the work it got. i could probably spend another 10 hours and still have work to do but like i said in previous posts, spending all that time could just get him a new knife. i know he will be happy and for me it was just a starting stone to restorations that a lot of people have been asking me about.
he got it back a few days ago and actually cried. this knife was given to him by a famous chef whom i cannot remember the name, but it was like 5 years old when he received it. bringing it back to life actually brought tears to his eyes and gave me an incredible feeling of accomplishment.
Nicely done.... Great effort....
I tried to search for you and i found it is http://www.sakai-tohji.co.jp/
堺刀司 正重作
You can copy and paste to google it if you want to
If anybody would like me to type the Chinese Kanji on knife...
i can try to type for you
Dave, how do you restore the hollow on a single bevel knife?
One of two things happen when I do this....
1. I use convexed platens & it comes out nice.
2. I use convexed platens & I screw the pooch.
The convex platens work nicely but I've found that you need more than one size and you can't grind straight (90 deg to platen length) across. You have to approach the platen from several angles to match up how this was done on the large wheels in Japan. The hollow looks simply ground but it's anything but that.
That's what I figured. So more or less angle to the platen toward the tip? Also:
1. where do you get convexed platen?
2. What grit do you use to grind?
3. Do you use scotchbrite belts to clean up?
4. How far can you grind until you hit soft cladding?
5. Can you make a video?
6. Are you going to make yanagi? :idea2:
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