An interesting Sabatier Restoration WIP

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cotedupy

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I recently received these four project knives I'd bought off BST. They're not massively fancy, just decent quality, workhorse-y, stainless numbers, built to withstand the rigours of a professional kitchen.

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Nevertheless I was surprised they didn't sell relatively quickly, because they weren't expensive, and the bottom two in particular are really quite interesting. I got these from @minibatataman, who was an absolute pleasure to deal with, and until recently a chef at quite a smart restaurant in the Netherlands. The two wooden handled knives - Professional Sabatier and F Dick - were given to him by his head chef, who in turned had been handed them down by his previous head chef, Paul Bocuse. Now perhaps a lot of people don't know who that is, so here's a quick history rundown...

Bocuse was probably the most important and influential chef of the c.20th. At the time of his death in 2018 he had held three Michelin stars at his Lyonnais restaurant L'Auberge du Pont de Collognes consistently for 53 years, which is still by some distance the record for any individual.

He was also the originator and leading exponent of what became known as La Nouvelle Cuisine. To call it a 'culinary movement' would be something of an understatement; pretty much every dish in every fancy restaurant in the world, and much of what people cook at home too, owes considerable amounts to the revolutionary ideas of New Cooking. It's basically impossible to overstate Bocuse's impact on the way that we in the west eat today. Having a Sabatier that once belonged to him is like having one of Escoffier's Sabs.

Maybe it's only me that finds that quite cool and interesting, but anyway - hopefully I can do it justice, doesn't look too difficult does it?

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The handle needs some love, and the profile is a little peculiar, with a heavily upswept tip almost more like an Opinel than a Sab. But no problem, because it's also slightly tipped and if I fix that just by removing material from the spine then it will automatically lower the tip and correct the profile. I'll also probably want to thin it a bit, correct the finger guard, and get the scratches on the blade face out. All very easy. Will take less than an hour to have this knife looking great and performing excellently.

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Or at least it would have, but there was something else which I didn't clock originally...

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Eeeeep!😬😬😬

[TBC]
 
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Looking forward to your WIP. I looked at the lot and if it wasn't EU, I'd maybe of grabbed it. Glad it made it into some good hands though.👍

Sheesh maybe I would of sprung the extra shipping for the history with the blades! Very nice bonus!
 
Now that bend is not something you want to see in a monosteel knife at all. It probably shouldn't have surprised me though, I would say that more than 50% of the old, drop-forged, integrated bolster Sabs I see have bends like this. My best guess is that a combination of distal taper and differential hardening from spine to edge means that slight inconsistencies in the steel or grind lead to the knives warping naturally over time. It's not through misuse; if you intentionally try to bend a monosteel knife like this it will just spring back to the shape it was before, and that same reason is why it's particularly bad news for me here. Because it ain't gonna be easy to bend it back!

In fact I'd never actually tried this properly before, I just knew the theory. We need to bend it back the same amount the other way in some kind of vice or clamp, whilst heating it to within very close of the temperature of the original temper, but without exceeding that because you'd screw the heat treat. Hmm. We are straying into areas that I don't know so much about. But rather helpfully K Sabatier have a page on their website titled 'Tempering of the stainless steel knives', which claims to be at 200-300c, which is a fairly wide range, but it's probably toward the bottom end of that tbh.

Now if you set a domestic oven at 200c it doesn't hold that temperature exactly and consistently, it kinda turns on and off, and on and off, and the temperature inside bounces around perhaps as much as +/- 30 or 40 degrees. So erring on the side of caution I set mine at 150 and did this:

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And, eventually, it worked. This took three goes of heating it up and cooling, bending it in slightly different places each time, and as you can see it does still have a bit of a warp, but this is well within the bounds of usability now. I can always do it again another time if I want, but actually the edge itself is straighter than the spine shot below makes out, so I probably won't bother.

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Though what it has also done, as you can imagine, is set the handle back even further.

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I'd quite like save the original handle if possible, at least in part because drilling out the rivets and making new scales is a right faff, so we'll see what we can make of what we've got. I'll probably sand it down a bit, dig out the areas around the tang, fill em with superglue or epoxy, and then re-sand and finish. I'm going to completely jinx myself by saying this no doubt, but it should come out surprisingly nicely considering what it looks like in the pic above.

First up though I'm going to do some work on the blade...

[TBC]
 
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Nice finds! I've done a good bit of restoration on handles of the same condition and they turn out great. Can't wait to see them finished up!


Ta! Fingers crossed for the handle.

The slight problem here compared to normal (which that pic doesn't show so well) is that the wood's shrunk after all that time in the oven. So the tang and bolster, particularly around the bird beak, are now noticeably proud of the scales. The glue is actually more to get it back to flush rather than needing to fill gaps, and I'll still need to sand some of the tang down. Should be ok, but just a bit more tricky now than it would've been before.
 
So onto some blade work. When I said above that if it didn't have the bend I could've done it in 30-40 mins, it's because I have access to a lot of fancy kit. Trying to do it all by hand would've taken hours.

Water cooled belt grinder to fix the tipping coming from the spine, and knock a little bit of the fingerguard off. Then the circular buffing wheels on the left of the pic below to polish the spine and bit of fingerguard that I've ground off. I like these wheels, make things very shiny and rounded again after they've been on belts.

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Though perhaps an even better wheel, is the one on the right here:

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That's a kinda hard fabric/cloth wheel, which you then load with strange red glue that's got abrasive in it, and use for polishing. You have to be a bit careful of the edge cos it heats things quite a lot and it's easy to burn the steel, but it'll take pretty heavy duty grind marks out of the face of a blade in about 30s and leave it proper shiny. The light scratches on this knife are no problem. Dunno if I'll keep that finish or perhaps run some sandpaper over it to go for a more matte, brushed-steel look. We'll see.

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So this is where I'm at now: Still need to do the handle. The profile is certainly more Sab-like, though the tip is still a little high, and to correct it you'd need to lose either a little height, or length. ATM the knife is 230 x 49 which is quite tall for an old Sab this size, and I want to preserve that. You could take about 1cm of length off from the spine which would lower the tip a bit. I'm in two minds about it, what do people reckon...?

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The other interesting thing related to all this is that I'm fairly certain this knife was a decent bit longer originally, maybe something like 270. As I said; 49mm at the heel is very tall for a 230mm Sab, and the high tip profile isn't normal. I think someone's probably snapped a bit off the end at some point, and fixed it by removing material solely from the edge, rather than the spine.

You can see this quite clearly in the edge pic below, it's considerably thicker at the tip than it is a couple of inches down. The grind doesn't match the profile at all, and I'll definitely need to thin it out up there. Turning into a proper project this one... gonna test all my skillz by the end!

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Whilst doing all that yesterday I also sorted the big 300mm at the top of the first pic, which did literally only take 10 or 15 mins.

This is a cheaper Diamant Sabatier, which doesn't have the fully integrated bolster. These knives are cut from a sheet of metal I assume, and then have a soft aluminium bolster and fingerguard put over the top. This means a couple of things; they're quite thin, don't really have any distal taper, and rarely warp to the same extent as the drop forged knives.

Again I fixed the tip, both from spine and edge this time, and corrected the fingerguard. I also ran it over the fabric-n-abrasive-glue polishing wheel, and then just now went over the top of it with red scotch-brite after to see what that finish looked like. And I think it's pretty good tbh; more matte and brushed, so I'm going to do the same to the fancier one too.

There was a small blemish in one of the scales which I filled with some superglue, and then re-finished them. Plastic and rubber handles on Sabs are quite shiny and slippery so I like to sand them down at something like 180 grit, which makes them much grippier and more tactile imo.

Looking forward to this, I've never had a Chef's knife this size before.

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On a side note: Red Scotch Brite is absolutely magic. Anybody who owns a knife owes it to themselves to have red Scotch Brite in their life.

I think they rate it at 360; it'll remove rust, clean up reasonably heavy scratch marks from thinning &c., leave a surprisingly nice finish on steel, and is also a perfect level for handles. I use it in some way on basically every sharpening / repair job I do at work.

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Give the handle a good soak in mineral oil overnight.


Ah, I did consider that after the oven-ing actually. I’ve now put some glue in various bits, but once I’ve sanded that down tomorrow I may then give it a little oil bath if you recommend. Ta!
 
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So there were a handful of things I needed to do today...

First up I did take some length off in order to lower the tip and make the profile how I wanted. You can see it in the last two pics of this post, but I basically took about 5 or 6mm of length off, coming from the spine, to make it 225 x 49. And because of how rapidly upswept the tip was before; that actually lowered it considerably, to a profile that's now kinda Sabatier with a bit of gyuto thrown in. I'm very happy with this. I also changed the finger guard correction slightly to make it less angular and more rounded, then re-polished both that and the spine.

Then I thinned it a bit, particularly up at the tip, though the knife was quite nicely ground already so I didn't have to do much. This is the the spinning gizmo I use for thinning and coarser work, and like a fair amount of the kit here is homemade. It's basically a motor inside a metal keg, running a ceramic plate (like a thick pizza stone) with some holes drilled in, pins to hold various stones custom made by a UK abrasives company, and water coming from a bit of hose on a magnet. Works a feckin charm.

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Afterwards I polished out the grind marks on the glue wheel thing in one of the posts above, and by playing around with pressure and the speed I managed to get a less shiny finish, which I preferred.

Then I needed to sort out the handle, which was looking pretty rough tbh. I don't have a picture, but imagine the worst of the pics above, with some of the mankier join bits dug out, and a load of superglue used to try to fill them. Though unfortunately superglue isn't that easy a thing to hand sand because it's pretty hard, so I looked around for a better solution. And as if red Scotch Brite wasn't wonderful enough already as pads, it turns out that... IT ALSO COMES IN BELT FORM!!!

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Now that one belt is killing a lot of birds for me; because as well as removing excess glue it also abrades the rivet and tang metal quite well, so everything sits nice and flush, and it’s a nice finish, so with just a lick of oil we've got a very pretty handle indeed.

This pic also shows quite well how I've needed to build the handle back up with glue. If you look at the top of the tang it looks like it's protruding from the scales, but it's not - it's completely smooth. That's just a thin strip of superglue catching the light differently from the metal and wood, and in most light / angles it's pretty much invisible.

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Last thing then was just sharpening. Getting a few edge chips out and forming an apex on the spinning stone, and then a quick n coarse Washita for the final edge.

And as you can probably guess from the pics below I'm quite happy about the end result, and I think I've done it justice. Thank you again @minibatataman, this one will be seeing many more years of use to come!

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Super nice work there and the handle looks awesome - well done!!!

When you mentioned Scotch Brite I thought you were speaking of belts but then i saw your patch so not sure now. Do you have or have you ever used the scotch brite belts on your belt sander? If not you should check them out. I have a few "project knives" and 2 in particular that needed some finishing work and I like a satin finish. I bought the course, med, fine, and extra fine and they are awesome. Medium is actually nice and I used fine on one of the blades. Had to try the extra fine just because but don't know if I'll use it much if ever again. The lines they leave are very uniform from the belt and depending on scratches most can be removed if not hidden in seconds.

Again, awesome job you're doing there - I know it's a fun and satisfying endeavor. Good luck with the rest of it!!!
 
wow! the handle came out fantastic, looks better than new... and I think the new profile was a good decision, looks more user friendly and the proportions are great.

Ta, yeah I'm really pleased with the profile now, definitely the right call to drop the tip down further I think.

I was fairly confident I could get the handle looking pretty good (I've made and restored hundreds and hundreds of kitchen knife handles), but you never know exactly what the wood's going to look like until that first time you oil it after sanding. And I definitely got lucky here, they're some of the prettiest scales I've seen on an old Sab.


Super nice work there and the handle looks awesome - well done!!!

When you mentioned Scotch Brite I thought you were speaking of belts but then i saw your patch so not sure now. Do you have or have you ever used the scotch brite belts on your belt sander? If not you should check them out. I have a few "project knives" and 2 in particular that needed some finishing work and I like a satin finish. I bought the course, med, fine, and extra fine and they are awesome. Medium is actually nice and I used fine on one of the blades. Had to try the extra fine just because but don't know if I'll use it much if ever again. The lines they leave are very uniform from the belt and depending on scratches most can be removed if not hidden in seconds.

Again, awesome job you're doing there - I know it's a fun and satisfying endeavor. Good luck with the rest of it!!!


Cheers!

In the middle of the final post that’s a Scotch Brite belt, it’s just quite grubby. We tend to use the glue wheels for that kind of polishing because they clean / degrease things very well before etching. But for other stuff I’d be with you; I probably prefer the Scotch Brite satin type finish, I’ll have to have a look what other grits we’ve got and have a play around.

And yep - I do certainly use the pads a lot, for all sorts of things.
 
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