Budget stainless steel Gyuto or Santoku that is easy and pleasant enough to sharpen

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CableReady

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I’m looking for a budget (sub-$200 after shipping and tax, ideally sub-$150) ~180mm gyuto or santoku for my wife.

She has good knife skills (better than me), and she has been learning to use whetstones, and has gotten proficient at it (she sharpened all her parents knives and even bought a whetstone for their house). She washes and dries her knives at the end of her cooking, but she’d rather not be bothered with wiping down her knives in between tasks, or before putting it down to go do something else. So the knife should be comparatively stainless, or non-reactive. (Unless I am overestimating how frequently carbon steels need to be wiped down.)

I'm looking for something that is stainless steel but still comparatively easy and enjoyable to sharpen and deburr—maybe that's a tall order, and sacrifices need to be made. So, it's fine if this all comes at the expense of edge retention, as long as it isn't totally abysmal like a Kiwi. Maybe that's still a tall order for this budget; you tell me.

Knives I’ve been considering:
Masutani VG-1 Gyuto or Santoku
Kanehide P60 Santoku
Kotetsu Hamon 19C27 Santoku 180mm
Yahiko Ginsan Nashiji Hand Engraved Santoku 165mm
Takamura Santoku in SG2 (worried this is not tough enough and not friendly for sharpening)

I'm leaning toward the Masutani, not sure whether the Gyuto or Santoku though. Open to other options though!

LOCATION
What country are you in? USA

KNIFE TYPE
What type of knife are you interested in (e.g., chef’s knife, slicer, boning knife, utility knife, bread knife, paring knife, cleaver)? Santoku or smaller Gyuto

Are you right or left handed? This is for my wife who is right handed. (I am a lefty, so something fairly ambidextrous would be nice, in case I use it, but this is not required.)

Are you interested in a Western handle (e.g., classic Wusthof handle) or Japanese handle? Open to either

What length of knife (blade) are you interested in (in inches or millimeters)? ~170-190mm

Do you require a stainless knife? (Yes or no) Yes. Or, at least sufficiently stainless that it could safely go up to 45 minutes or so without being wiped down after cutting.

What is your absolute maximum budget for your knife? $200 after shipping and taxes. (Would prefer less than $150.)

KNIFE USE
Do you primarily intend to use this knife at home or a professional environment? Home

What are the main tasks you primarily intend to use the knife for (e.g., slicing vegetables, chopping vegetables, mincing vegetables, slicing meats, cutting down poultry, breaking poultry bones, filleting fish, trimming meats, etc.)? slicing, chopping, and mincing vegetables (and some fruit) and tofu

What knife, if any, are you replacing? Recently she's been using a #22 Kiwi (largish Nakiri-like profile) mainly. When chopping herbs and larger things she reaches for our Victorinox 8" chef's knife. But mainly looking to replace the Kiwi with something nicer that is also nicer to sharpen/deburr, and has better edge retention.

We used to use a Chinese X50CrMov15 Chef's knife (8") and Santoku by Cangshan. She used them both but reached for the Santoku slightly more frequently. We don't use these knives anymore since the blades have lost a lot of metal from frequent machine sharpening, and they are fully bolstered and the geometry from the bolster to the heel of the blade has gotten to be off from the loss of metal on the blade. Also, the bolster has been inconvenient since we started learning to sharpen on whetstones.

Better edge retention than the Kiwi is a low bar here. The Cangshan knives have comparatively bad edge retention but it is still better than the Kiwi, and good enough. Something stainless that sharpens up like my Shiro Kamo Aogami Super nakiri would be awesome, even if it can't retain its edge as nearly as long. Short-ish edge retention is fine if it is fun enough to sharpen!


Do you have a particular grip that you primarily use? (Please click on this LINK for the common types of grips.) Pinch

What cutting motions do you primarily use? (Please click on this LINK for types of cutting motions and identify the two or three most common cutting motions, in order of most used to least used.) Mainly push cutting, some pull cutting, and some rocking with herbs, especially cilantro and parsley.

What improvements do you want from your current knife? If you are not replacing a knife, please identify as many characteristics identified below in parentheses that you would like this knife to have.) Easy to care for, pleasant to sharpen, better edge retention than Kiwi (doesn't need to be amazing edge retention).


KNIFE MAINTENANCE
Do you use a bamboo, wood, rubber, or synthetic cutting board? Maple edge grain boos block. Occasionally a basic polyethylene plastic cutting board, when someone else is using the boos block.

Do you sharpen your own knives? Yes. We have Shapton stones: SG220, SG500, SP1000, SP2000, SG4000.

If not, are you interested in learning how to sharpen your knives? We have been learning, and enjoy it. Looking for a stainless steel knife that would be enjoyable to sharpen.

Are you interested in purchasing sharpening products for your knives? No, we have more than enough.
 
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AEB-L steel could fit the bill here. Ashi Hamono is well regarded, and good Fit and finish at the price point. I own two of their knives for work (1 stainless, 1 White #2) and haven't had any problems with them.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/235539015152
$172 before tax and shipping
you just know I have hung out here waaaay too long when $172 is presented/promoted as a Budget Option.
 
I wholeheartedly second @jakuda ‘s recommendation for an Ashi Ginga Swedish stainless (AEBL) 180 Gyuto or Santoku. Great value and nice heat treat and grind. Thin enough to cut well and, at least my several western handled examples, are not too thin to handle some tough stuff. A great value in performance, fit and finish, and utility. I recently purchased two Yuuraku (rebranded Ashi by all reports and based on my inspection and comparison to my Ashi Ginga examples, same boxes even) and they were on my doorstep in less than 5 days to the US with free shipping and including a weekend.


https://www.yuisenri.com/collections/yuuraku/products/yuuraku-stainless-aebl-gyuto

https://www.yuisenri.com/collections/yuuraku/products/yuuraku-aebl-stainless-santoku
 
The Masutani knives have fairly thin grind and good cutting performance. The Hokiyama (tsunehisa/harukaze/e'erbody house brand...) ginsan is easier to sharpen than the Masutani VG-10. The masutani Vg-1(very similar to Ginsan) line should be easier than the vg-10 , but I haven't sharpened one in a long while and so I can't say for certain.
 
The Masutani knives have fairly thin grind and good cutting performance. The Hokiyama (tsunehisa/harukaze/e'erbody house brand...) ginsan is easier to sharpen than the Masutani VG-10. The masutani Vg-1(very similar to Ginsan) line should be easier than the vg-10 , but I haven't sharpened one in a long while and so I can't say for certain.
Masutani VG1 is not as easy as Ginsan but not bad
 
Ginga is awesome if you can fit it int hte budget, but if you want to go cheaper I'd consider some semi-stainless stuff like Kanehide TK or JCK's Carbonext. They sharpen incredibly easy while still ticking your endurance boxes just fine.
 
Thanks all! I’m now leaning towards either springing for the Yuuraku santoku (which comes to $179 total) and which is said to be a rebranded Ashi Ginga, or going cheaper (for now) with the Masutani santoku in VG1 (which comes to around $75).

One thing I was wondering: would the Yuuraku resell pretty easily, in case it doesn’t end up getting used all that much?

I’ve also got some more specific questions below.

JCK Kagayaki Basics
Tsunehisa Ginsan
Takamura

Is the Takamura you would recommend the SG2 one? I read that while this stays sharp for awhile, SG2 isn’t exactly a dream to sharpen up. Or is this overstated?

As far as SG2 knives go, I was also eyeing Ogata’s knives on Cleancut. Would these compare favorably with the Takamura, or would the Takamura likely be the better choice?

A stainless clad carbon would tick all your boxes. A good example of a TF nashiji would be perfect.

I thought the cladding makes it that you don’t have to wipe the whole knife down right after using it, just the edge. But don’t you still have to wipe just as frequently?

How long can you leave these knives after cutting with them before wiping them down?

I wholeheartedly second @jakuda ‘s recommendation for an Ashi Ginga Swedish stainless (AEBL) 180 Gyuto or Santoku. Great value and nice heat treat and grind. Thin enough to cut well and, at least my several western handled examples, are not too thin to handle some tough stuff. A great value in performance, fit and finish, and utility. I recently purchased two Yuuraku (rebranded Ashi by all reports and based on my inspection and comparison to my Ashi Ginga examples, same boxes even) and they were on my doorstep in less than 5 days to the US with free shipping and including a weekend.


https://www.yuisenri.com/collections/yuuraku/products/yuuraku-stainless-aebl-gyuto

https://www.yuisenri.com/collections/yuuraku/products/yuuraku-aebl-stainless-santoku
As I mentioned above, I’m seriously considering the santoku you linked, given the suggestion these knives are just the Ashi Ginga knives rebranded, and given that it is nearly $30 cheaper (after shipping and taxes) than the Ashi Ginga linked from Ebay.

But one thing that is giving me pause is that the Ashi Ginga and the Yuuraku are listed has having different blade lengths. The product page for the santoku you linked says the blade length is 170mm, whereas the Ashi Ginga santoku on ebay is described as having a 183mm blade length. Does this suggest that they are not the same after all? Or is this more likely indicative of a different way of measuring?

does such a thing exist?
In fairness to myself, I said “comparatively” easy and enjoyable to sharpen, which can naturally be read as relative to the options falling in my budget. And, recognizing that a budget comes with limits, I also indicated that edge retention is the area I’d be willing to sacrifice
:)
 
So the ease of sharpening SG2/R2 gets debated a little bit but by and large I think most would agree with me that it isn't bad at all. No it won't from a near insta-burr like simple carbons but it isn't that challenging either. The tools you listed should handle it just fine, it might just take a little longer.

These are very thin knives so even more challenging steels are pretty responsive on these edges.

I'd rather sharpen harder stainless steels like this rather than softer stuff like Victorinox any day.

Never tried an Ogata but I've seen good comments here. Abuse the forum search function. There's a good chance you'll find abundant discussion on all of these things to help educate yourself. I think Ogata's are known to be very, very thin. I might be remembering wrong.
 
But one thing that is giving me pause is that the Ashi Ginga and the Yuuraku are listed has having different blade lengths. The product page for the santoku you linked says the blade length is 170mm, whereas the Ashi Ginga santoku on ebay is described as having a 183mm blade length. Does this suggest that they are not the same after all? Or is this more likely indicative of a different way of measuring?
I have no reason to doubt Yuuraku's listed specs. I don't have a santoku but I do have an 180 white 2 gyuto and it has a heel to tip length of 185mm, spec wise. Note that the wa handled Ashi's are said to run short. I've only owned western handled Ashi's and they've all been at or a couple mm longer than listed in edge length. My 240 Ashi gyuto is 246mm and my 240 suji is 244mm, both western.
 
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So the ease of sharpening SG2/R2 gets debated a little bit but by and large I think most would agree with me that it isn't bad at all. No it won't from a near insta-burr like simple carbons but it isn't that challenging either. The tools you listed should handle it just fine, it might just take a little longer.

These are very thin knives so even more challenging steels are pretty responsive on these edges.

I'd rather sharpen harder stainless steels like this rather than softer stuff like Victorinox any day.

Never tried an Ogata but I've seen good comments here. Abuse the forum search function. There's a good chance you'll find abundant discussion on all of these things to help educate yourself. I think Ogata's are known to be very, very thin. I might be remembering wrong.
Ogata are very lasery; yes. My 135 ko-nakiri is a demon on shallots and smaller mushrooms. A teense thicker just behind the edge than Shibata’s R2, but still a nail-flexer.

I concur about the steel behaving well on alumina stones like Shapton and Chosera. Cerax 5k is a bit of a sweet-spot finisher.
 
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Ashi western handled blade length is close to the listed length of "180mm", while japanese-handled blade length will be 5-10mm shorter; the tip-handle length will be ~180mm
 
My wife used the Shiro Kamo nakiri a bit more, and while she's not fond of having to make sure the blade is wiped down in between tasks, she likes the octagonal style Wa-handle, with the slightly more forward balance point.

So I decided to go Wa-handle, which eliminated the Yuuraku. (My wife is vegan, so I did not want to get her a horn-ferruled knife to use.)

I just ordered a Tsunehisa Ginsan Nashiji 210mm Gyuto (which she said she'd prefer over the Santoku) with a custom handle via Sugi Cutlery (which she picked out). With a different handle, the knife could be got from cheaper elsewhere, but after Sugi Cutlery's blade/handle combo discount, it actually came to be the same price as the oak wa-handled offering I found on Carbon Knife Co., just with a more personalized touch.

Perhaps sometime down the line I'll get the Ashi Ginga 240mm Gyuto in White #2... or maybe I'll wait and save and get the Yoshikane White #2 240mm Gyuto. But that's for another time. I love using the nakiri.
 
A stainless clad carbon would tick all your boxes. A good example of a TF nashiji would be perfect.
https://japanesechefsknife.com/prod...eel-no-1-series-gyuto-180mm-and-210mm-2-sizes
Made by TF for JCK. White#1 core with stainless cladding. The core quickly gets a patina and from then you're quite safe. That said, leaving any knife, stainless or carbon, wet for 45 minutes is no good idea. Even full stainless will suffer because of micro-corrosion causing the edge to degrade. Nobody is asking you to wipe after every cut, but leaving wet — and dirty — for 45 minutes will for sure cause rust at the border of core and clad. No patina will protect against it.
I found the knife's edge retention quite surprising. I'm well aware that it isn't where white steel is known for. It's the first Japanese yo-gyuto I've seen that's truly ambidextrous. Most so called ambidextrous have a symmetric edge, but a strongly right-biased geometry, where produce will stick to the flat left side if used by a left-hander. Not here: the left side is equally convexed, and the core steel and the edge are strictly centered.
Not the thinnest, but still a remarkable cutter. I still have to understand what in the grinding does achieve this result.
I'm a bit surprised by the short edge retention you're experiencing with AS. I would expect it to easily outperform any carbon and most stainless, excepted for some recent supersteels. Due to the steel's structure, I would give it a rather conservative edge, and start a full sharpening with a medium coarse stone as your 500. A trick we got here from Mr Martell. Must have to do with the tungsten carbides. Keep it very thin behind the edge, and let the very edge itself be as said rather conservative, in the 35° inclusive range.
 
Why would you get Ashi or Yoshikane in white #2 when both have very good equivalent stainless options?
Yoshikane vs Ashi is... not so much a case of one is better than the other, they're just different. I've used both and actually prefer Ashi and sold Yoshi, but others might have a completely opposite opinion.
 
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