Daily Sharpening Pics

[hibbs00]

Visited an old friend who went to Osaka recently and picked this up from https://www.towerknives.com/

Nice! I'm still learning knives but looks a lot like the one that was given to me

 

[deltaplex]

what Itinomonn is that? love those knives

Itinomonn StainLess Kasumi 150mm Wa Petty

It's taken on all challengers for the lower heel height petty crown and it's still #1

 

[Pie]

Guys I am terrible at sharpening normal people knives. Traaaaash. The soft steel, huge bellies and sheer mass BTE are all so displeasing. Bolsters. I also don’t do it very often, so I’m fighting muscle memory every step of the way.

On the plus side I spent a bit more time deburring after setting an edge with SG220 and the result is just below an 8/10, which I did not expect. This kind of sharp on a low grit stone is new in my world. Gonna have to revisit that old HHT off SP120 thread.

Also unsure as to why this is all italicized.

 

[tim huang]

and i found a scratch on one side of the bevel..........back to 180grit

 

[jacobwilder5]

I was watching some YouTube vids of Ivan and he pulled out a Mazaki KU to sharpen/polish and it inspired me to do the same with mine.

Spent a few hours last night playing with some different low grits and working on the bevels. This is after taking it up to sg500 to see how the work is progressing.

There’s a stubborn low spot on the heel I’m trying not to overdo but other than that it’s been smooth.

I’m a novice polisher so any tips or suggestions are welcome based on what you see.

 

[deltaplex]

I was watching some YouTube vids of Ivan and he pulled out a Mazaki KU to sharpen/polish and it inspired me to do the same with mine.

Spent a few hours last night playing with some different low grits and working on the bevels. This is after taking it up to sg500 to see how the work is progressing.

There’s a stubborn low spot on the heel I’m trying not to overdo but other than that it’s been smooth.

I’m a novice polisher so any tips or suggestions are welcome based on what you see.

View attachment 316798
View attachment 316799

Do you do this ambidextrous or do you only use one of your LH/RH side for this?

 

[ethompson]

I was watching some YouTube vids of Ivan and he pulled out a Mazaki KU to sharpen/polish and it inspired me to do the same with mine.

Spent a few hours last night playing with some different low grits and working on the bevels. This is after taking it up to sg500 to see how the work is progressing.

There’s a stubborn low spot on the heel I’m trying not to overdo but other than that it’s been smooth.

I’m a novice polisher so any tips or suggestions are welcome based on what you see.

View attachment 316798
View attachment 316799

Don’t try and chase out that low spot at the edge by the heel by working the whole bevel - you’re just going to wildly push up that shinogi trying to get there. You need to add some more convexity and work it out from the lamination line down. Will mean losing some height (not the full height of the low spot!!) but it’s worth the trade off.

Also you aren’t rotating enough at the tip to compensate for the distal taper. Your edge to shinogi angle at the tip will be far more acute than at the heel.

 

[MowgFace]

Don’t try and chase out that low spot at the edge by the heel by working the whole bevel - you’re just going to wildly push up that shinogi trying to get there. You need to add some more convexity and work it out from the lamination line down. Will mean losing some height (not the full height of the low spot!!) but it’s worth the trade off.

Also you aren’t rotating enough at the tip to compensate for the distal taper. Your edge to shinogi angle at the tip will be far more acute than at the heel.

This.

Adjusting for the tip and heel is the thing that I think took me the longest to internalize. Not just for wide bevels, but edge sharpening too (just on a smaller scale). Jon (JKI) always stressed this on his livestreams and still was a lesson I thought I had figured out way before I really did.

 

[jacobwilder5]

Do you do this ambidextrous or do you only use one of your LH/RH side for this?

Ambidextrous. I actually do the same for sharpening the edge. I've always felt more comfortable switching hands and keeping the edge facing me.

Don’t try and chase out that low spot at the edge by the heel by working the whole bevel - you’re just going to wildly push up that shinogi trying to get there. You need to add some more convexity and work it out from the lamination line down. Will mean losing some height (not the full height of the low spot!!) but it’s worth the trade off.

Also you aren’t rotating enough at the tip to compensate for the distal taper. Your edge to shinogi angle at the tip will be far more acute than at the heel.

Thanks for the tips! I'll start working on the convexity near/around the lamination line. That makes a lot of sense and I've already noticed that shinogi line going way up on the left hand side of the blade chasing that low spot.

For rotating the tip is the goal to be making more contact with the blade face near the tip then? Similar to how the KU line draws up steeper in that area? Also when you say rotate, is it rotating the tip towards me or away from me? Or is it more of a lift where I'd have the tip touching the stone but not the rest of the blade due to the taper? The lift concept is similar to what I do when I'm edge sharpening to keep the angle at the tip so I'm familiar with that.

 

[ethompson]

Ambidextrous. I actually do the same for sharpening the edge. I've always felt more comfortable switching hands and keeping the edge facing me.


Thanks for the tips! I'll start working on the convexity near/around the lamination line. That makes a lot of sense and I've already noticed that shinogi line going way up on the left hand side of the blade chasing that low spot.

For rotating the tip is the goal to be making more contact with the blade face near the tip then? Similar to how the KU line draws up steeper in that area? Also when you say rotate, is it rotating the tip towards me or away from me? Or is it more of a lift where I'd have the tip touching the stone but not the rest of the blade due to the taper? The lift concept is similar to what I do when I'm edge sharpening to keep the angle at the tip so I'm familiar with that.

Yes, you want maintain the height of your contact area from heel to toe giving yourself a uniform shinogi height. You can see from your scratch pattern that you are over abrading at the heel and under abrading at the tip. The compensating motion is a mix of lifting the handle up and rotating towards the spine. Subtle but important movements.

 

[tim huang]

try to thin another hitohira ashi SW stainless gyuto 240.

 

[thp001]

$45 White #2 Tojiro Nakiri. My best cutter.

 

[Uncle Danny]

Lovely stuff

 

[mengwong]

Noticed a bird’s beak on my Fujiwara Kanefusa FKH 270mm sujihiki in SK-4 steel, previously coffee etched.

Reprofiled the tip by breadknifing on a Manticore; and grinding on an American Mutt, and on a JKI1000 diamond that turned out to be a JKI6000 diamond lol, finally a RockStar 1000.

Better now.

Recto​

Verso
​

Am now a fan of the American Mutt though it glazed when I tried to use it to flatten the Manticore. Oops. Now I wish I’d bought the full size stone and not just the puck.

 

[Pie]

Fresh off super soft Hideriyama coming from Naniwa SS5k, some core clean up and the tip to do, but other side to do first.

7 years in and I haven’t found another stone this versatile. Super silky light eating iron.

Convex mostly checks out as well.

 

[Uncle Danny]

This has only been touched up on leather.

EddWorks is out of this world

 

[azn_knives_4l]

A little work on the stainless-clad Kochi... Please excuse the finish. Knife has a very specific job to do and it's not quite there yet so it'll have to do for now.

 

[azn_knives_4l]

So, uh... I kept going Hard to say exactly but the triangle math implies <6° inclusive. It is stable somehow, lmao. It looks like zero but is actually three bevels blended into a convex. Any thoughts on edge finish?

 

[azn_knives_4l]

Thinning is... done? Hard to say, lol. I tested out a couple of edge finishes tho and I think we're there. But does it cut

 

[xtcxtq]

 

[Pie]

Just went from 220 to this small patch of semi flat coti for “deburring”. The scrap side of a sweet BBW, just to see what happens.

Amazing little spot of stone, I do wish the rest of it was still there now that I’ve had a taste. @cotedupy nailed it, even the backsides of his stones are top tier

Just a touch out of flat.

 

[azn_knives_4l]

I convexed and polished a standard height 200mm Vic... Apex is a tiny little micro-bevel at ~17dps. It is so carefree and durable and I'm not sure how to feel about that

 

[OkayMode]

Hollow hira means a full bench stone polish isn’t possible so… Shigezaki??

Current scratch pattern is 400 grit to work out the inexplicably deep grind scratches, then I’ll polish up the core before deciding whether to either leave a working sandpaper finish on the cladding, or alternatively go hell for leather and refine the grits until I can convert to a fingerstone Kasumi.

The grunt work is made miles easier (and quicker) by glueing a rectangle of cork to a long piece of wood, and using the cork as backing for strips of sandpaper. I think Maxim does this, and i swear I read that he picked it up from Shigefusa.

 

[azn_knives_4l]

Hollow hira means a full bench stone polish isn’t possible so… Shigezaki??

Current scratch pattern is 400 grit to work out the inexplicably deep grind scratches, then I’ll polish up the core before deciding whether to either leave a working sandpaper finish on the cladding, or alternatively go hell for leather and refine the grits until I can convert to a fingerstone Kasumi.

The grunt work is made miles easier (and quicker) by glueing a rectangle of cork to a long piece of wood, and using the cork as backing for strips of sandpaper. I think Maxim does this, and i swear I read that he picked it up from Shigefusa.

View attachment 326949

Whoa. I stumbled on the same sandpaper method but am using balsa. I'ma look for some cork. Thanks for sharing!

 

[OkayMode]

Whoa. I stumbled on the same sandpaper method but am using balsa. I'ma look for some cork. Thanks for sharing!

I imagine balsa would work the same, but perhaps cork might flex and conform to the surface slightly better

 

[azn_knives_4l]

I imagine balsa would work the same, but perhaps cork might flex and conform to the surface slightly better

Funny enough, I glued the balsa to shelf liner to achieve exactly this effect, lmao.

 

[noj]

Hollow hira means a full bench stone polish isn’t possible so… Shigezaki??

Current scratch pattern is 400 grit to work out the inexplicably deep grind scratches, then I’ll polish up the core before deciding whether to either leave a working sandpaper finish on the cladding, or alternatively go hell for leather and refine the grits until I can convert to a fingerstone Kasumi.

The grunt work is made miles easier (and quicker) by glueing a rectangle of cork to a long piece of wood, and using the cork as backing for strips of sandpaper. I think Maxim does this, and i swear I read that he picked it up from Shigefusa.

Been wondering for a while what that rectangle on a stick exactly was, and what it was for.

 

[azn_knives_4l]

For any of y'all that have experimented... How do convexity and finish interact for food release? Is one more important than the other? I tested out the Vics I just did and even potatoes don't stick I remember seeing some YouTube videos from Salty waaaaay back in the day but never anything formal.

 

[M1k3]

For any of y'all that have experimented... How do convexity and finish interact for food release? Is one more important than the other? I tested out the Vics I just did and even potatoes don't stick I remember seeing some YouTube videos from Salty waaaaay back in the day but never anything formal.

Convex > blade finish > concave > flat face

 

[azn_knives_4l]

Convex > blade finish > concave > flat face

Thanks so much for the ranking