i am searching for a good low enough grit stone for thinning that i can flatten using an atoma 140

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do you know what is the abrasive in the king 300 and the cerax 320 ? sic or aluminum oxide
also which one of these would you recommend more from the youtube reviews that i saw the cerax 320 is soft gets unflat faster and also cuts slower
I'd just get one of the Shapton 220's, any of their different lines. Splash and go, stays relatively flat, fast cutting, no glazing or loading and it's splash and go.
 
I've only tried a few different stones, but I love my Shapton Glass 220.

About the King 300, technically it's a splash n go, and it works well for edges this way. But it works best for thinning / polishing if you soak it. I have used mine on stainless with no issues other than clogging / loading, but then you refresh it with the Atoma and it's ready to go again... no big deal. I haven't noticed any extra clogging with stainless vs. carbon...
@Choppin and @M1k3 what is your experience with that?
i have said in the thread i only want a stone that i can flatten/maintain using an atoma 140 i was recommended the king 300 i got it and now they are saying "don't use an atoma with it"
what is your take on that is the atoma 140 good with the maintenance of the king 300 ?
Acts more like SiC than AlOx in that it "blunts" with excessive pressure and cuts finer, a characteristic of the cubic SiC crystals as the corners get knocked off in use.

I find that with heavy use I need to refresh my Deluxe 300 regularly with coarse SiC (60 grit) and a sandstone I'm flattening to keep it cutting well. Not normally necessary very often, but I'm working on a Yanagiba that got screwed up and needed serious bevel grinding to fix (my fault). Wore out a 220 grit stone on it, but it's nearly done.

These stones are VERY hard and rarely need to be flattened, but they will "blunt" or "glaze" with use and stop cutting well. Don't use an atoma or silicon carbide paper to flatten them, it's only going to blunt the rigidly held grit of the stone, you need rolling grit to "poke" off the blunt particles and expose sharp one.

In normal use (heavy sharpening of double bevel knives or plane and chisel blades) it won't wear very quickly.
 
@Choppin and @M1k3 what is your experience with that?
i have said in the thread i only want a stone that i can flatten/maintain using an atoma 140 i was recommended the king 300 i got it and now they are saying "don't use an atoma with it"
what is your take on that is the atoma 140 good with the maintenance of the king 300 ?
I don't have an Atoma 140 but I use this one on my SG220 and King 300, which is 150 grit apparently: Diamond Flattening Plate

Oooops, I read the description and it says it shouldn't be used to flatten anything below 400... crap. I just used the hell our of my SG220 and flattened with it every time! Maybe that's why it is feeling worn down lately lol...

I know that's not what you want but maybe buy an inexpensive flattener like the one below for the lower grit stones? (I'm thinking about that for myself also)
https://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/products/stone-fixer-100?_pos=3&_sid=4f3fcf4cc&_ss=r
 
I don't have an Atoma 140 but I use this one on my SG220 and King 300, which is 150 grit apparently: Diamond Flattening Plate

Oooops, I read the description and it says it shouldn't be used to flatten anything below 400... crap. I just used the hell our of my SG220 and flattened with it every time! Maybe that's why it is feeling worn down lately lol...

I know that's not what you want but maybe buy an inexpensive flattener like the one below for the lower grit stones? (I'm thinking about that for myself also)
https://www.japaneseknifeimports.com/products/stone-fixer-100?_pos=3&_sid=4f3fcf4cc&_ss=r
maybe you have used very large pressure ?
you shouldn't be applying pressure from what i read
 
Are you just going to keep asking the same question until you get the answer you want to see?
 
@Choppin and @M1k3 what is your experience with that?
i have said in the thread i only want a stone that i can flatten/maintain using an atoma 140 i was recommended the king 300 i got it and now they are saying "don't use an atoma with it"
what is your take on that is the atoma 140 good with the maintenance of the king 300 ?
I have a king deluxe 300 and an atoma. I don't use the atoma on the kd300 because it over polishes the abrasive and makes the stone work more slowly and glaze more quickly. I find that using SiC grit is more effective at producing a surface on the King that cuts well. And it is one percent of the cost of an atoma which isn't meant for low grit stones and super hard binders and is hella expensive comparatively. I bought $3 worth of SiC grit 7 years ago and it has flattened probably a hundred stones.
 
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