What is the machine you are asking about? Can you provide a link or a picture?Hi all, does anyone have experience with this type of machine? I would need it not so much to sharpen as to grind at low grit without having to spend hours doing it by hand, I had thought of doing it on a dry grindstone by wetting the knife but it's too risky. If anyone has done this kind of use, any advice is welcome!
Thanks
Right,thanks!
Thanks. I'll be following this thread as I'm thinking about getting one too!
Buyer is not on KKF, it sold locally.I am not sure exactly what you mean by that, since the thread title is
Thank you for your detailed answer; the title of the post can actually be misleading, I'm looking for the simplest way to emulate the big wheels that Japanese craftsmen use to grind knives; generally they use two grains from what I deduced from the videos, a very coarse grain I think 150 and a finer one, I don't know what grain size it is, after these two steps (they choose which wheel to use based on the state of the knife) they go on the dry grindstone with very dense discs on which they finish. It is clear that it could be done by hand where generally a sequence of stones with different grits is used to get to polishing as desired but in this case manual grinding is less incisive in the geometry of the knife and therefore weak, more suitable for "polishing" than for actual grinding; an alternative would be Tormek, the problem in this case would be that there are no corundum or silicon carbide discs that are suitable for Tormek with low grit (Tormek uses diamond wheels for low grit if I remember correctly) in addition, being Tormek designed for use with a guide, it does not necessarily mean that it can be used in a different way from how it was designed, the main doubt is that water that flows on the stone goes to spread everywhere.Ah, yeah, indeed
1. TLDR:
So if you have to sharpen a lot of knives and want to set the bevel quickly, I think this machine could make your work a lot easier. For thinning, less so.
2. In detail:
I am not sure exactly what you mean by that, since the thread title is
So @Odissea/1978, if you can give a bit of detail what you want to do with the machine, we might give you more precise suggestions. Anyhow, here's my experience with the Shinko:
I bought the machine to aid in thinning, not for sharpening though. But it is intended as a sharpener. I didn't find it easy to use this for thinning the knife, but I tried it on a 270mm gyuto with a difficult shape. It might be doable though, but I gave up on it after a few hours.
For sharpening though, none of these issues would be relevant. I think this should work quite well, this is what it is made for.
Know that the stone discs are fairly soft, I believe they're made by King. It's also a bit messy with the water flying around from the disc. Nothing too bad though. Generally, the machine works well for sharpening. The water drips onto the disc and flows out from a pipe - the whole contact area is very wet the whole time, no danger of overheating. Surface of the 180mm disc also is generous even for large knives. The angle guide is minimalistic and inteded for chisels and other tools, but you won't need that anyways.
The machine comes with a 1000 grit disc, which imho should be enough even for completely resetting a cutting edge. But there is a 180 also, which would make short work of that task. There is also a 6000 grit disc, but I think it's better to do the polishing by hand - if the bevel is set, it will only be a short while on the fine stone anyways. Also note that the Japanese version needs a 100V power supply.
Thank you for your detailed answer; the title of the post can actually be misleading, I'm looking for the simplest way to emulate the big wheels that Japanese craftsmen use to grind knives; generally they use two grains from what I deduced from the videos, a very coarse grain I think 150 and a finer one, I don't know what grain size it is, after these two steps (they choose which wheel to use based on the state of the knife) they go on the dry grindstone with very dense discs on which they finish. It is clear that it could be done by hand where generally a sequence of stones with different grits is used to get to polishing as desired but in this case manual grinding is less incisive in the geometry of the knife and therefore weak, more suitable for "polishing" than for actual grinding; an alternative would be Tormek, the problem in this case would be that there are no corundum or silicon carbide discs that are suitable for Tormek with low grit (Tormek uses diamond wheels for low grit if I remember correctly) in addition, being Tormek designed for use with a guide, it does not necessarily mean that it can be used in a different way from how it was designed, the main doubt is that water that flows on the stone goes to spread everywhere.
neither of these hypotheses convinces me
for those who read the post and do not know the subject, I am attaching a link to a restoration video by a young Japanese craftsman that I follow on Youtube:
Obviously not very practical for a sharpening hobbyist, but a fascinating solution.FWIW, @KAMON Knives has a wet belt sander rig - that's probably the European equivalent
Yes, I agree. I have a Worksharp 3000 that I use in the shop for plane irons and chisels but I don't find it useful for knives. It is fantastic for chisels. You are done in minutes.
Hi thanks for your reply!
