Thank you so much for answering my confusion! I think the peeling of the oxide layer should be a pattern formed by hitting with a hammer in the final trimming stageKurouchi finish isn't usually created from bluing solution. It's an oxidised steel layer left after forging. Some blacksmiths are able to produce amazingly beautiful ku finishes - Hadari Ichihiro the famous chisel maker was renowned for it. Iwasaki, Konobu, Sato all do a great job. In the knife world, I think Tsukasa Hinoura does best that I've handled. It will wear off over time, with usage etc.
But the quality of the initial finish is heavily impacted by how the surface is prepared before forging. It requires a fine, even file finish to get it deep and silky. Katos KU knives are not created with much finesse. The ku is uneven and very light. They also don't seem to be treated in a way that protects the finish. It doesn't affect the performance of the knife, so not sure if it matters.
HiI've had a couple Kato Gyuto's with KU (both AS with stainless cladding) - neither looked like your knife or its KU finish. Also, neither have as deep/wide a machi as your knife. You sure it's a Kato?
Hi
Yes, we areI think you are talking about different Katos...
You may already know this but if not. You could apply some Birchwood Casey perma blue solution to patch up that worn area. It matches with Kato finish pretty well and is really easy to use.Hello!
I'm very curious about how kato's knife is oxidized black, using bluing solutions will get an all black oxide layer, but his kitchen knife has a lot of oxide layer peeling off
I know Birchwood Casey perma blue, that is general bluing solution for black finish, my kato ku is BNIB, That's why I'm asking about brand new knives with very serious oxide peeling, I think they should have been formed by a hammerYou may already know this but if not. You could apply some Birchwood Casey perma blue solution to patch up that worn area. It matches with Kato finish pretty well and is really easy to use.
Awesome knife you have there!
The Kiyoshi Kato Ku is all natural (unlike a few other manufacturers who basically paint it on the blades) from the forge. I initially thought the marks were caused by the roller that some makers use to straighten their blades after heat treatment. Maksim told me Kato doesn't have a roller in his workshop and that the marks you can see are caused by the reaction with the clay Kato uses to control the heat transfer.Thank you so much for answering my confusion! I think the peeling of the oxide layer should be a pattern formed by hitting with a hammer in the final trimming stage
My bad - sorry about that!Hi
We have different knife LOL, My pic is Kiyoshi kato KU
It's ok!!!My bad - sorry about that!
Thank you so much for your reply, I think you have inspired me a lot!The Kiyoshi Kato Ku is all natural (unlike a few other manufacturers who basically paint it on the blades) from the forge. I initially thought the marks were caused by the roller that some makers use to straighten their blades after heat treatment. Maksim told me Kato doesn't have a roller in his workshop and that the marks you can see are caused by the reaction with the clay Kato uses to control the heat transfer.
That said the roller explanation makes more sense to me given the marks are always longitudinal and in areas of the blade where there could be a higher frequency of deformations ie the thinner parts.
YMMV
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