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Please help me buy a new gyuto, upgrade for my tojiro dp

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KNIFE TYPE
Gyuto

Are you right or left handed? Right

Japanese handle, octagonal

What length of knife (blade) are you interested in (in inches or millimeters)? 240

Do you require a stainless knife? No but don’t want anything too reactive

What is your absolute maximum budget for your knife? Absolute maximum is $300 before tax and shipping



KNIFE USE
Do you primarily intend to use this knife at home or a professional environment?
Home

What are the main tasks you primarily intend to use the knife for? General use. Slicing, chopping, mincing veggies and breaking down chickens mainly

What knife, if any, are you replacing?
tojiro dp gyuto. Nice beginner knife but i don’t love the profile as it’s not flat enough and leaves me with green onion accordions. Also way too thick despite my efforts to thin it(i’m a sharpening novice though)

Do you have a particular grip that you primarily use? (Please click on this LINK for the common types of grips.)
pinch grip

What cutting motions do you primarily use?
Push/pull, up/down, almost no rocking

What improvements do you want from your current knife? A (preferably octagonal) wa handle, bigger flat spot, harder steel, finish that doesn’t scratch as easily (yea yea i know they’re tools but it’s ridiculous on the tojiro). Better fit and finish, lighter, much MUCH thinner, doesn’t need to be voodoo but better edge retention


KNIFE MAINTENANCE
Do you use a bamboo, wood, rubber, or synthetic cutting board? Rubber, sani-tuff

Do you sharpen your own knives? Yes but still learning

If not, are you interested in learning how to sharpen your knives? (Yes or no.)

Are you interested in purchasing sharpening products for your knives? Nope, happy with my king 1k/6k



SPECIAL REQUESTS/COMMENTS

No pakkawood handles(ferrule is ok), out of stock is fine as long as the wait isn’t absurdly long. Thanks in advance
 

M1k3

Fuyo
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In my opinion, can't go wrong with Yoshikane. I'd say go with that choice, with a caveat. If you don't like a flatter profiled knife, Yoshikane won't work. Otherwise they are great knives!
 

tcmx3

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Yoshikane is an absolute laser & mine (a white 2 version) is incredibly light even with an ebony handle.

Just as alternative options maybe take a look at Tanaka, Wakui and Kochi too. They tend to be the go-tos in the price range around here (and for good reason, there's not a less-than-killer choice amongst them). And for what it's worth, I got a Mazaki 240 recently and I *LOVE* it. But it's actually very slightly heavier than a Tojiro.

Just based on what you asked for Yoshikane SKD might be the best fit though.
 

Benuser

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Besides, send your DP out to have it thinned and properly sharpened. As for your new knife, thin it behind the edge everytime you give it a full sharpening.
 
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In my opinion, can't go wrong with Yoshikane. I'd say go with that choice, with a caveat. If you don't like a flatter profiled knife, Yoshikane won't work. Otherwise they are great knives!
Flatter profile is actually very important to me so it sounds perfect. What’s the thinness like? Not just behind the edge but as a whole
 
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Yoshikane is an absolute laser & mine (a white 2 version) is incredibly light even with an ebony handle.

Just as alternative options maybe take a look at Tanaka, Wakui and Kochi too. They tend to be the go-tos in the price range around here (and for good reason, there's not a less-than-killer choice amongst them). And for what it's worth, I got a Mazaki 240 recently and I *LOVE* it. But it's actually very slightly heavier than a Tojiro.

Just based on what you asked for Yoshikane SKD might be the best fit though.
So skd? Not white #2? Idk much about skd steel
 

tcmx3

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So skd? Not white #2? Idk much about skd steel
Either is fine.

SKD12 is near as makes no difference A2 tool steel. It's not stainless, but it is less reactive than white 2. Just given that you were talking about wanting better edge retention, it's a good choice. I like shirogrami 1 and 2 but I also like sharpening.
 

M1k3

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Flatter profile is actually very important to me so it sounds perfect. What’s the thinness like? Not just behind the edge but as a whole
Thin where it should be, thick where it should be. Great cutting feel. Good enough food release. The SKD is rocking, great compromise of ease of sharpening and edge retention. With some reactivity left on the table. SLD and White versions are no slouches either.
 
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Thin where it should be, thick where it should be. Great cutting feel. Good enough food release. The SKD is rocking, great compromise of ease of sharpening and edge retention. With some reactivity left on the table. SLD and White versions are no slouches either.
Ah, i was referring to the white. Sld is way out of my price range, and skd well it looks fine but it’s a bit pricier and a bit uglier lol
 

GorillaGrunt

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Yoshikane SKD is one of my favorite steels. Tanaka blue is just as good of a knife, Yoshi is flatter and not as tall at the heel while Tanaka is taller and a continuous curve. Shibata R2 has the best edge retention and durability of any 2mm thin knife I’ve used. Are you talking about breaking down chickens through the joints or through the spine and breastbone?
 

birdsfan

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Let me amplify what Mike said about Yoshikane. It is an absolute delight. The profile is great for pull and push cutting. I also had a Makato R2, great edge retention, fun to use, but it felt more fragile on the board. Always felt like I had to baby it. Do not have that feeling with the Yoshi
 

JDC

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Glad that you are considering Yoshikane. I have some Kurosakis, solid performers, but yoshikane's just at another level.
 
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Yoshikane SKD is one of my favorite steels. Tanaka blue is just as good of a knife, Yoshi is flatter and not as tall at the heel while Tanaka is taller and a continuous curve. Shibata R2 has the best edge retention and durability of any 2mm thin knife I’ve used. Are you talking about breaking down chickens through the joints or through the spine and breastbone?
Through joints. No cleaving involved
 

cotedupy

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Not if you use the right grit. You can start with something like 80 and go up from there. That will be much faster than a 1000 stone. Thining is no quick process.

Also if your board is not flat you can get accordion cuts with any knife.
^^^

This is becoming more and more apparent to me. The next large whack of money I spend on something is going to be a really good board.
 
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Currently looking at the yoshikane tsuchime 240, the shibata AS (the type 3 gyuto), the shibata R2 k tip, makoto kurosaki R2, harukaze srs15(not confident about this one, mostly liking the steel and the profile)
I've got a Yoshikane Tsuchime 240 in SKD and it's an excellent knife. It's easy to sharpen and maintain, holds a great toothy edge for a long time, has the best food release of any gyuto I've ever used. Highly recommended, definitely cuts above its price point, and totally worth your consideration.
 
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Not if you use the right grit. You can start with something like 80 and go up from there. That will be much faster than a 1000 stone. Thining is no quick process.

Also if your board is not flat you can get accordion cuts with any knife.
This happens on all my boards but i just bought my current board, a sani tuff
 

ap1487

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For what it's worth, I also spent the last week looking for something fairly similar, originally shortlisted a Kato or Kamo and then got persuaded by some smart folks on this forum to look at Yoshikane and never looked back. Pulled the trigger on the SKD today!
 

M1k3

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For what it's worth, I also spent the last week looking for something fairly similar, originally shortlisted a Kato or Kamo and then got persuaded by some smart folks on this forum to look at Yoshikane and never looked back. Pulled the trigger on the SKD today!
Cut something harder to cut with the Yoshikane. A large squash, sweet potato, cold water soaked potato, etc. Instant kool-aid smile. It'll be your new gold standard for grinds.
 
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