Is it a stone deglazer/flattener, or concrete polisher? Seems to work either way.
![20230105_084237_HDR[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attach/207/207518-20230105-084237-HDR-1-.jpg "20230105_084237_HDR[1].jpg")
shapton 120
- Thread starter noj
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It's finicky. I've had mine for awhile.
- It works continuously, for the most part, when thinning stainless cladding.
- Loose coarse SiC is your friend.
- My go to for grinding down spines on knives. Just leave the grooves on the surface, it'll help release grit during sharpening.
The_Real_Self
Well-Known Member
I'm not sure I understand the meaning of the OP here? What are you trying to convey, that it grinds concrete rather than the other way around when you tried to flatten it? I'd say float glass and loose 60 grit would be the appropriate choice here or maybe Naniwa 24 Grit Flattening stone.
Thanks for the tips. Sorry for the lack of clarity; I suspect it was a combination on annoyance with the product, and my peculiar sense of humor. Actually, it in fact does a good job of resurfacing the stone and polishing the concrete at the same time.
I got it back to life (releases grit and makes black swarf anyhow) using heavy pressure sharpening a cold chisel. I don't know if it's any good on knives, but I guess I can use it for some tools. Maybe my lawnmower blade;-)
You gotta absolutely bag on it if you want it to release grit. A spoon did the best job (I was carving pumpkins) and the grooves in it actually do help it shed more grit.
I’ve kinda run into the same thing, that it will work but the amount of pressure needed doesn’t mesh well with thin edges.
Idk. I use it for thinning but that’s about it.
I’ve kinda run into the same thing, that it will work but the amount of pressure needed doesn’t mesh well with thin edges.
Idk. I use it for thinning but that’s about it.
FWIW, the 100 grit Nanahone is working for me in thinning / reprofiling role. Scratch pattern is relatively easy to clean up.
The_Real_Self
Well-Known Member
Would that be the diamond resin? That's what Hap recommends for thinning and it looks like it would work great. He says it's more like wiping away steel than grinding it away. I really cannot fathom what this means entirely but I'd imagine it's much quicker. I have a Tormek that I'm going to start trying for thinning freehand, I'll be trying this the next time I get the chance.
I’m gathering coarse stones, adding this one to the list. First up after my 120 dies is sigma 240.
My big problem is things don’t grind core steel like they do cladding. It’s mostly the core I battle with, I usually can hear it slipping vs grinding and my blood pressure skyrockets.
Sigma 240 the next time I end up at Lee valley
Debado 180 is my coarse poison of choice these days
Is the Shapton Pro 120 significantly faster than the Shapton Glass 220? I find the 220 quite user friendly as far as coarse stones go (doesn't glaze or dish too much, easy to flatten, etc) and fast enough for most reprofiling / thinning / repair jobs.
Ngl my 120 sits while my 220 gets used and flattened every 5-6 heavy passes. More time spent maintaining, but easily better than having my diamond plate eaten. That or having to get the sic out.
Thanks for all the tips.
A less useful, but perhaps amusing one, my shapton 120 stone conditioner ..
![20230110_131756[1].jpg](https://cdn.imagearchive.com/kitchenknifeforums/data/attach/208/208552-20230110-131756-1-.jpg "20230110_131756[1].jpg")
A less useful, but perhaps amusing one, my shapton 120 stone conditioner ..
When it's working at full speed, yes. But it'll need refreshing or high pressure from time to time.
