Or cutting something with it for that sweet patina camouflage.The key to being happy with a polish is not looking at it too closely
Or cutting something with it for that sweet patina camouflage.The key to being happy with a polish is not looking at it too closely
Fixed it for youThe key to being happy with a polish is not
For me it's my most favourite part. I make myself a good pour over, I choose a new album to discover and I start rubbing. +1 if I do this in the morning without anyone while watching the sun rise.Also using finger-stones don’t make a polish any less good or worthy - they should be a tool in any polisher’s kit
I can source these. Will trade these mythical waters for uchigomori fingerstones.I've only found true happiness polishing using purified waters of lake minnetonka
Looking clean!Back at it again. Setting my sights a bit lower this time. It’s definitely more satisfying working on something better aligned with my skill level.
Here’s a Joel Black fresh off a nsk oburo 400. Not too happy about the shinogi line at the heel creeping up but it was already like that when I got it from JB. Objective here was to thin behind the edge, clean up the shinogi line, erase some lingering scratches.
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Shinogi is looking crispy - nice workJoel Black apexultra/dammy clad. This is probably my best attempt yet. I spent a lot time on the 400 stone trying to dial in the geometry and even out the grind perpendicular/parallel to the edge while maintaining convexity. There were some massive overgrinds that were corrected still one left at the very tip on the right side.
Working with a lower bevel certainly is easier but I also found not having as much real estate for your finger placement a challenge at times - I rolled the shinogi a few times when my finger slipped.
I feel like I’m finally finding a stone lineup that is working well for me. Progression was nsk 200, nsk 400, chosera 800, nsk 1500, chosera 3k, narutaki iromono, soft uchi, shobu suita from @edthompson (don’t sleep on these when he has them in stock, super easy to use).
I may test the bevels against a nakayama kiita but I’m not sure if there is too much more to reveal in this dammy cladding.
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AwesomeLast post on this JB. Messing around with a nakayama kiita tomae . I think I’m just going to leave it here. I hope the new owner enjoys it.
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Thank you for sharing. That looks excellent! Something I have been trying to figure out lately: what is the best way to protect the other side of the knife when sanding or polishing? What is your set up?For a first time you're on the right path @Veitchii ! For what I can see you'll have to be tighter on your coarse grit progression to avoid big scratches. Play with different light sources to chase them away and erase them before going up with finer grit. It's not magic, it's just about taking the time and reading the scratch pattern carefully
Also the jump from sandpaper to diamond paste is tedious and will require more time to have something homogeneous. But once you erase every lines from sandpaper, it's a walk in the park! Cheap diamond paste will require more work too since the diamond concentration is very low. My usual progression is this with a blade in good shape:
- sandpaper 400
- sandpaper 600
- sandpaper 1k
- diamond paste 1.5k
- diamond paste 2k
- diamond paste 3k
- diamond paste 4k
- diamond paste 14k
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And it's ok to aim for perfection but polishing by hand will always leave little flaw's appearing, especially on mirror finish.
If there is a scratch on the other side of the blade made by the same grain size it is not difficult to erase. But when I change particle sizes I make sure to always clean my work space to avoid cross-contamination. I also change cotton pad and wash my hand frequently.Thank you for sharing. That looks excellent! Something I have been trying to figure out lately: what is the best way to protect the other side of the knife when sanding or polishing? What is your set up?
Who is the smith on this?Rough polish by me
Belongs to @ethompson.
White steel Damascus double wrought iron gyuto
220mm edge
235mm machi to tip
172g
49mm tall
0.9mm 1cm from tip
4mm heel
Thinned then 320 cerax fingerstones then uchigumori fingerstones. Coarse fingerstone is good for geometry fine tuning, but easy to cut myself hah. Need to resharpen.
Double wrought iron -- low and medium carbon, the medium carbon cladding has figuring, coarser grain like banding, and oxide inclusions. Not sure if technically the medium carbon iron is wrought, but the figuring is a lot like wrought. It hazes up darker than the core steel, and abrades more easily, so I assume a lower carbon content. The soft iron is the softest I've ever sharpened -- softer than mosaku iron
Righty bias, great archetypical white steel, aggression and refinement, not too abradable, low grit marks still there. Handle glued on, I don't want to break it because it's a nice handle, so grind marks near neck still there. Needs more time with coarse fingerstones. There were low spots that were taking long to get out on a bench stone, so I used coarse fingerstones instead as a compromise. Swordsmith style kanji
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You’re the best. Thanks!
Lol, me know more than you about an obscure Japanese maker? I think not, my friend. Appreciate the vote of confidence though!
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