Show your work! Uchigumori and co...

Kitchen Knife Forums

Help Support Kitchen Knife Forums:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
540A652B-8253-4F5E-ADA8-086545506DFC.jpeg

First attempt ever… this is a LOT harder than I thought it would be! This is one of my employees knives, Okeya Ginsan 270, tons of low spots that became very apparent as soon as I put in on the stones.
This was a blatant reminder that this is an art, and as of right now I am terrible at it lol. Gonna keep working at it! Also very curious about J-nats and how they might change things… obviously they are not miracle stones, technique is everything I’m sure.
 
Had to attempt to thin my Denka because the cladding line had reached the edge.

Before thinning:

IMG_7109.JPG

After thinning and tidying up:

IMG_8029.JPG

IMG_8028.JPG

IMG_8031.JPG

Messed up the kurouchi a bit, but that was hard to avoid. Some more finishing work to be done.

There was a hollow spot one one side at the heel which has unfortunately resulted in a significant up-sweep. I'm hoping it will be reduced a bit when I sharpen it.
 
Had to attempt to thin my Denka because the cladding line had reached the edge.

Before thinning:

View attachment 165647

After thinning and tidying up:

View attachment 165648

View attachment 165650

View attachment 165651

Messed up the kurouchi a bit, but that was hard to avoid. Some more finishing work to be done.

There was a hollow spot one one side at the heel which has unfortunately resulted in a significant up-sweep. I'm hoping it will be reduced a bit when I sharpen it.

Tip for next time: You should put some tape on the kurouchi part to protect it.
 
I tried, but didn’t have any tape that was able to withstand the 220 stone. The unevenness of the finish made it very hard to keep some spots off the stone and bits of tape were clogging it up. Maybe a double layer of duct tape next time.
 
Got a couple killer stones from @Hassanbensober - an iyoto and an ohira suita. Maybe it’s a product of my limited jnat collection, but these things are fast.
Threw the polish mule on them for a couple minutes -
F5C41B03-EFAA-4ECB-8416-6381FFF20B18.jpeg


Another few passes
4E983062-79FB-4A24-8B59-E16A43115756.jpeg

Impressed, to say the least.

Can’t wait to hide from my responsibilities for some more time with these.
 
Can’t wait to hide from my responsibilities for some more time with these.
I too, use polishing as a my preferred revenge bedtime procrastination technique. Also, I too was surprised on how fast (relatively speaking) suitas seem to be in comparison to similarly hard finishing stones. Guess that is part of why they get so expensive.
 
What is a good first j-nat for polishing/finishing? Looking to pick what up I just have no idea what to get…definitely willing to spend money on something I can keep.

they're all individual etc etc etc but...

Maruoyama Shiro Suita. get the purest/biggest one you can afford.

reasonably priced (comparatively), easy to use, beautiful finishes, also tend to leave good edges a bit angrier than some of the harder suitas.
 
What is a good first j-nat for polishing/finishing? Looking to pick what up I just have no idea what to get…definitely willing to spend money on something I can keep.
Pick a price range, hound BST, and have a discussion with the seller as to what’s appropriate. Unfortunately there’s not much consistency afforded by pedigree, mine, or appearance. IME a softer Hideriyama tomae may be a good place to start, but I keep seeing others obtain good results off reasonably priced marouyama.

I say pick up a cheaper koppa and see what happens. Getting what you’re looking for is infinitely easier when you have one data point on what you do and don’t like.
 
Gentle thinning (1k to start) and full progression for the ShiHan. Working on knives with grinds this immaculate is so easy. About an hour to take it back up to a finish that is as good as I can manage without stone powder, finger-stones, etc. King 1k > Shapton Glass 2k > Aoto > soft Ohira karasu uchigumori > Nakayama suita > Ohira uchigumori (very hard / fine) > Okudo suita. Used paper towel and the remaining slurry off the last suita to smooth it out a little bit too.
 
Revisited a stone I hadn’t really gotten to know very well, a softer shobu suita. Turns out it’s capable of some nice contrast while mirror polishing the cladding, all while giving up a comfortable mud cushion. Some scratches are there, I’m hoping from grit contamination and not an inclusion.

 
5E02642D-3510-41F3-80F8-3B129ADEADA7.jpeg

All natural progression - amakusa, white amakusa, Hideriyama, shobou suita. Core steel isn’t nearly as clean as synth prepped, I suspect due to the variable cutting power of my stones, combined with impatience. Reminds me a bit of mazaki’s stock finishes about a year ago.
 
Last edited:
I'm a big fan of Walter Sorrels' hybrid polishing method for hamons, of course they're just about impossible to photograph nicely if they're active.
20220416_214212[1].jpg
 
Cleaning up the Matsubara after 2 thinning sessions. Played around with some etching to try to calm down the reactivity. Some interesting details started showing up in parts of the cladding.
1.jpg

3.jpg
that's Matsubara White 1 right? How did you go about thinning it if I may ask? How does it perform now after 2 thinning sessions?
 
that's Matsubara White 1 right? How did you go about thinning it if I may ask? How does it perform now after 2 thinning sessions?
It arrived thick at the edge with a bit of a wonky grind. I focused my effort on the first 10-15mm behind the edge. The geometry higher up the blade is nice, so I just wanted to mainly thin bte and preserve the original convexity. I did the thinning work with sandpaper on top of an atoma block. 220-400-800, going slowly and checking frequently. Here's a photo of original grind compared to result after the first thinning. Second thinning was less significant. The knife performs way nicer now. I'll just have to see now how the reactivity is after the polish and etch.
thinning.jpg
 
What did you use to refinish the KU?

Sorry, this is a proprietary process that I came up with through a lot of trial and error - I will keep this to myself.

However a lot of folks use gun blu and get pretty good results. The stuff is pretty toxic, but I think in the small amounts used and if the blade is prepped correctly before and after it is no problem.
 
Back
Top