Small Gap in new Nigara Hamono

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Just opened up the box for my new Nigara Hamono 240mm SG2 Matt Migaki Gyuto, and noticed a small gap between the ferrule and the blade:
1660867824661.png


I can't imagine this was intentional since pictures of the knife online show the blade flush with the handle, and my 150mm Petty in the same series has no such gap. It's about the width of dental floss, so barely noticeable, but I'm more concerned about getting food particles stuck there where bacteria can grow. Not sure what to do - should I try to fix it? Contact the vendor? Would appreciate some sagely advice.
 
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Looks too small to be a proper machi gap, probably just not well installed. I'd contact the seller, but some beeswax can also slove the problem.
 
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I had a similar gap that I filled with beeswax, like @blokey stated. Definitely works well.
My main concern was potential rusting in the gap. With a pinch grip, my hand covers the gap from food, but I was worried the gap would lead to rust in the future as it would be near impossible to properly dry that area in the space.
I'd contact the vendor and see what they have to say first.
 

Delat

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Look up machi gap. No biggy.

Isn’t a matchi gap where there’s an exposed transition from the neck to the tang? In the photo the “gap” looks like a notch cut out of the neck. It looks kinda weird, like trying to fake a matchi gap but probably has some (unknown, inexplicable) purpose.
 
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Isn’t a matchi gap where there’s an exposed transition from the neck to the tang? In the photo the “gap” looks like a notch cut out of the neck. It looks kinda weird, like trying to fake a matchi gap but probably has some (unknown, inexplicable) purpose.
It’s just a very tiny, unintentional one. Maybe you’re looking at the reflection?
 

McMan

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Just a machi gap (albeit a very tiny one). Nothing to worry about.
Cut with the edge of the knife and avoid making 20lbs of tartare at a time...
 
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I had a similar gap that I filled with beeswax, like @blokey stated. Definitely works well.
My main concern was potential rusting in the gap. With a pinch grip, my hand covers the gap from food, but I was worried the gap would lead to rust in the future as it would be near impossible to properly dry that area in the space.
I'd contact the vendor and see what they have to say first.
Contacted seller and he said it’s not a problem and can’t be sure if it’s intentional. Although I disagree, I’m not inclined to argue my case.
 
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I had a similar gap that I filled with beeswax, like @blokey stated. Definitely works well.
My main concern was potential rusting in the gap. With a pinch grip, my hand covers the gap from food, but I was worried the gap would lead to rust in the future as it would be near impossible to properly dry that area in the space.
I'd contact the vendor and see what they have to say first.
Did you use any special brand of beeswax? Any tips for application?
 
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I bought a 1oz bar a few years back for pretty cheap. I initially bought it to use for filling a small gap in a cutting board that I didn't want water to get into. Worked great for the board, as well as for a few handles.
 

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It’s just a very tiny, unintentional one. Maybe you’re looking at the reflection?
Looks like an intentional notch cut into the neck to me. Here’s OP’s “machi gap” which just looks like a very clean notch in the neck with no exposed tang. Followed by a classic machi which has a partially exposed tang.

If OPs blade were inserted 1mm deeper hiding the part of the neck below the notch then it would trick the eye into looking like a true machi gap. But I think the actual tang is fully hidden down in the handle somewhere.

D893EC60-AA15-4BF8-A312-D2C45F9DDC64.jpeg

C77F736F-F752-405A-A240-DE576B76F079.jpeg
 

HumbleHomeCook

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Looks like an intentional notch cut into the neck to me. Here’s OP’s “machi gap” which just looks like a very clean notch in the neck with no exposed tang. Followed by a classic machi which has a partially exposed tang.

If OPs blade were inserted 1mm deeper hiding the part of the neck below the notch then it would trick the eye into looking like a true machi gap. But I think the actual tang is fully hidden down in the handle somewhere.

View attachment 194320
View attachment 194321

I think that's reflection off the polished handle face.
 

DitmasPork

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Just opened up the box for my new Nigara Hamono 240mm SG2 Matt Migaki Gyuto, and noticed a small gap between the ferrule and the blade:
View attachment 194264

I can't imagine this was intentional since pictures of the knife online show the blade flush with the handle, and my 150mm Petty in the same series has no such gap. It's about the width of dental floss, so barely noticeable, but I'm more concerned about getting food particles stuck there where bacteria can grow. Not sure what to do - should I try to fix it? Contact the vendor? Would appreciate some sagely advice.

If it were my knife, I'd leave it—gives the knife character. I like machi gaps, bought a couple of knives last month *partly because they had a machi gaps! [*but mostly because they where good knives]

Anyway, IMHO, the gap on yours is tiny—can't see it being enough of an issue for a vendor wanting to do anything about it. I'd just enjoy the knife, coo pattern on the blade face! BTW, I've never had a problem with food getting caught in the gap.

5FDF3049-71B6-4157-BCB5-93B606228418.jpg
 
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bahamaroot

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Looks like an intentional notch cut into the neck to me. Here’s OP’s “machi gap” which just looks like a very clean notch in the neck with no exposed tang. Followed by a classic machi which has a partially exposed tang.

If OPs blade were inserted 1mm deeper hiding the part of the neck below the notch then it would trick the eye into looking like a true machi gap. But I think the actual tang is fully hidden down in the handle somewhere.

View attachment 194320
View attachment 194321
There is no "notch" in the neck, you're seeing a refection off the polished ferrule. That line you see in the center of what would be the notch you're seeing is the edge of the hole the tang sets in. If the picture was taken at a different angle you could tell better.
 

Delat

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There is no "notch" in the neck, you're seeing a refection off the polished ferrule. That line you see in the center of what would be the notch you're seeing is the edge of the hole the tang sets in. If the picture was taken at a different angle you could tell better.

Ahhh, got it. It was a blue dress / white dress thing for me until you explained it.
 

big D

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Did you use any special brand of beeswax? Any tips for application?
Hit a farmers market to see if a honey stand has any. If you are in the O'Hare area, there is a honey farmer which displays pure wax bars along with honey at the Park Ridge farmers market. Everything labeled as Pure bees wax is not. Never dealt with them, but if I were to order online I would go here > Honeycomb. You can also make your own board butter if you wish. They are in Barrington.
 
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Just opened up the box for my new Nigara Hamono 240mm SG2 Matt Migaki Gyuto, and noticed a small gap between the ferrule and the blade:
View attachment 194264

I can't imagine this was intentional since pictures of the knife online show the blade flush with the handle, and my 150mm Petty in the same series has no such gap. It's about the width of dental floss, so barely noticeable, but I'm more concerned about getting food particles stuck there where bacteria can grow. Not sure what to do - should I try to fix it? Contact the vendor? Would appreciate some sagely advice.
How is the balance of the knife? Maybe the one who installed the handle tried to make the knife perfect balance
 
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If it were my knife, I'd leave it—gives the knife character. I like machi gaps, bought a couple of knives last month *partly because they had a machi gaps! [*but mostly because they where good knives]

Anyway, IMHO, the gap on yours is tiny—can't see it being enough of an issue for a vendor wanting to do anything about it. I'd just enjoy the knife, coo pattern on the blade face! BTW, I've never had a problem with food getting caught in the gap.

View attachment 194405
I talked to the vendor and he doesn't consider it an issue - the customer service has been excellent and I got a great deal with the current Euro to USD exchange rate, so I'm not going to push any further. He thinks the tang is glued in, but will reach out to Nigara to confirm.

I still don't believe the gap was intentional because it is so small compared to the other machi gaps I have seen on KKF, so I'll just fill it with beeswax and enjoy my knife. These are handmade products with "perfect imperfections", aka wabi-sabi, that gives some extra character to the knife without affecting actual performance. After seeing some of the TF bent blades and misaligned handles I really can't complain too much anyways...
 
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Used the knife last night to prep Mayo Tofu, and the handle is wayyy too long, high, and wide for my liking. Looking at the handle specs on Burrfection for the same knife, my measurements match the handle on the 270mm version so now I’m wondering if the wrong size handle was applied:
Overall Handle Length: 144mm
Ferrule: 34mm
Height at end: 29mm
Width at end: 24mm

I have small hands and will have to replace the handle. Any advice on going down the DIY rabbit hole versus sending it in to an expert?
 
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Used the knife last night to prep Mayo Tofu, and the handle is wayyy too long, high, and wide for my liking. Looking at the handle specs on Burrfection for the same knife, my measurements match the handle on the 270mm version so now I’m wondering if the wrong size handle was applied:
Overall Handle Length: 144mm
Ferrule: 34mm
Height at end: 29mm
Width at end: 24mm

I have small hands and will have to replace the handle. Any advice on going down the DIY rabbit hole versus sending it in to an expert?
I would love to hear more about Mayo tofu.
 

tostadas

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Used the knife last night to prep Mayo Tofu, and the handle is wayyy too long, high, and wide for my liking. Looking at the handle specs on Burrfection for the same knife, my measurements match the handle on the 270mm version so now I’m wondering if the wrong size handle was applied:
Overall Handle Length: 144mm
Ferrule: 34mm
Height at end: 29mm
Width at end: 24mm

I have small hands and will have to replace the handle. Any advice on going down the DIY rabbit hole versus sending it in to an expert?
If you're planning on trashing the handle anyways, my recommendation would be to try sawing off maybe 10mm off the back and then sanding it smooth. Typically I have not seen tang holes extend more than about 120mm, but if you keep the handle over 130mm, you give yourself some buffer.

You can also sand down the facets a little at a time using sandpaper on a flat surface. Removing the handle first would be easier, but it's possible to do it with the handle attached as long as you're careful about the blade. The horn will get scuffed up in the process, but you can shine it back up with a progression up to 800+ grit, then finishing with a buffer or some polish such as flitz.

Personally, I absolutely hate those particular wenge handles. But it's a good opportunity to experiment and make the most of it. Here's a thread I started a while back about the exact same kind of handle for your reference.
 
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