What grit ceramic rod to get? If any?

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I think as far as the German knives go it is very line dependent. German knives used to be ground thin, then market swung robust, I think it's swinging back again.

I have a 1922 Windmuhlenmesser Chef knife very thinly ground, and a very delicate tip
 
@Bobby2shots :
It was exactly such a PETec edge I was talking about. Much cheaper to produce than their former convexed edges but still with the same Krupp's 4116 @58Rc. Not exactly the steel to make a 28° inclusive edge with.
I would first ease those shoulders and round the edge a bit, ending at some 18° per side. Better chance it will survive the first board contact.
 
I think as far as the German knives go it is very line dependent. German knives used to be ground thin, then market swung robust, I think it's swinging back again.

I have a 1922 Windmuhlenmesser Chef knife very thinly ground, and a very delicate tip
The Herder 1922 are fantastic knives, with their Sab profile and grinding. But Herder's work in a traditional way other German makers have abandoned.
 
@Bobby2shots :
It was exactly such a PETec edge I was talking about. Much cheaper to produce than their former convexed edges but still with the same Krupp's 4116 @58Rc. Not exactly the steel to make a 28° inclusive edge with.
I would first ease those shoulders and round the edge a bit, ending at some 18° per side. Better chance it will survive the first board contact.

Are you ready for this??? I may have been wrong about the PETec edge on my knife. My 7" carving knife may have a flaw. My other Wusthof's all have a smooth bevel,,,, All of these Wusthof's (roughly 6 or 7 others) were purchased over the last 2 years or so.

PETec sharpening was apparently introduced in 2010. This video shows that sharpening is actually done by hand, and simple "checked/verified" on a laser indicator. The video was posted in 2011. Hmmm. Was the video "produced" prior to PETek??? Inquiring minds wanna know. o_O

Go to the 4:52 mark of this video;

 
I've heard that CKTG deletes bad reviews but I'm not 100% sure. They do have a video explaining how to spot a warped blade with the comments disabled so I'm inclined to believe it
 
Only buy for a pro environment, I got the black Mac (2k?) closer at hand, a ribbed stainless Wustov for “in the sh*t need teeth”, but regardless, the concept of rods is less than ideal. I’d recommend stropping over the rod generally if possible.
 
That's probably true for the older full-bolster model Wusthof's and Zwilling Pro S, but I'd be curious to see how the newer half-bolster models compare. Wusthof Classic and Ikon chef knives are now sharpened 14* per side, and apparently, their Japanese-style knives (santoku and nakiri) come sharpened at 10* per side.
My classic Ikon (fairly recent) was a fat axe behind the edge. Still is. The problem with their performance isn't the edge angle, it's the thickness behind the edge. What angle they give their edges is kind of irrelevant when it's got shoulders bigger than Schwarzenegger.
It's like the polar opposite of the Herder knives, where it's almost impossible to see an edge bevel.
 
My classic Ikon (fairly recent) was a fat axe behind the edge. Still is. The problem with their performance isn't the edge angle, it's the thickness behind the edge. What angle they give their edges is kind of irrelevant when it's got shoulders bigger than Schwarzenegger.
It's like the polar opposite of the Herder knives, where it's almost impossible to see an edge bevel.
Couldn't agree more. The new Wüsthofs require some serious work on the factory edge before getting somewhat usable. Removing shoulders, which is a form of thinning behind the edge, and rounding the straight bevels to convex ones, so it may have any chance to survive the first board contact. An angle of 14 degree per side won't hold with the Krupp 4116 @58Rc, so you better round it to some 18 degree. Those PETec edges are easy to produce, that's their major advantage, apart from the marketing nonsense. I measured 0.35mm behind the edge with the Cordon Bleu series, others even higher values with other ones, about the double from what you're looking for. It makes their blades reasonably fool-proof and cause little returns, but not exactly very performant.
As for the Herder, you may refine their OOTB edge a bit if you want. Get the the 1922 as long as they make it. Herder works in a traditional way, but has serious succession problems with their workers. So they are pushing their K-series with simpler handles and stamped blades, and playing with exotic woods, to maximize the outcome of working hours, as they can't increase their capacity. Again, if you want to experience what was a traditional carbon steel knife, get the 1922 23cm chef's and the 23cm tranchelard. Avoid their petty, it's too short with 10cm and too expensive for a little knife that had little contact area with the board, will get frequent sharpenings and have a short life span.
For one looking for a modern European stainless blade, consider the K-Sabatier 200-series. Sandvik's 14C28N steel, that's AEB-L on steroids, finely grained, easy sharpening, high edge stability and the resulting edge retention, @60Rc. Very light and thin, without being a laser, still some convexity in the grinding. About Fit&Finish, forget everything you know about French knives. Certainly on par with the Misonos, without requiring the work on the factory edge.
Couteau Cuisine 25 cm - Série 200 - Manche en G10 200 - Sabatier K
With serious budget restraints, decent carbons are made by Pallarès Solsona. C60 at it max, 60Rc. Strongly convexed on both sides. Requires a good sharpening with thinning right behind the edge and you have a very decently performing knife for little money. Serious, well thought and well made knifes at very reasonable prices.
 
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Avoiding stones, @coxhaus?
When sharpening you move the edge to a thicker part of the blade. If you don't compensate by thinning expect a rapid thickening behind the edge. If a good working chef's knife is 0.2mm thick above the bevels, it is more than the double at a few millimetres from there. View attachment 142783

Thanks for the diagram, Ben
 
I have a 11.5-inch old Henckels 4star chef's knife that I use to cut chicken bones. I still sharpen it at 20 degrees. I had a cleaver that I used way back but it tore up my cutting boards and the large chefs knife does not so I got rid of the cleaver.

I have a newer Zwilling Pro rocking santoku and I use it to not only rock chop herbs but to back up chicken bones and through crab and it’s no worse for the wear. That’s exactly the two things I purchased it for, and it makes my Japanese knives sigh in relief.
 
I have a newer Zwilling Pro rocking santoku and I use it to not only rock chop herbs but to back up chicken bones and through crab and it’s no worse for the wear. That’s exactly the two things I purchased it for, and it makes my Japanese knives sigh in relief.
Exactly. I think having a knife that can tackle tougher prep is very helpful, and gets rid of the stress from worrying about possibly damaging a more delicate blade.
 
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