Finishing stone for a nice toothy edge?

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I currently have a set of Shapton Pro stones - 320/1000/5000.

I typically start on the 1000, finish on the 5000, and then clean it up on a leather strop with 2 micron emulsion.

My knives are all very sharp using this progression, but some of them struggle to cleanly bite into things like tomato skins.

I’m looking for recommendations for a splash and go finishing stone to replace the 5000. Maybe something in the 2000-3000 range?
 
I currently have a set of Shapton Pro stones - 320/1000/5000.

I typically start on the 1000, finish on the 5000, and then clean it up on a leather strop with 2 micron emulsion.

My knives are all very sharp using this progression, but some of them struggle to cleanly bite into things like tomato skins.

I’m looking for recommendations for a splash and go finishing stone to replace the 5000. Maybe something in the 2000-3000 range?

You can buy something different but I would also encourage you to try your edge straight off of the 5k stone without stropping. You could also try straight off of the 1k with or without stropping. You might find you have everything you need.
 
Try the 1k, then strop on something unloaded. Paper, a towel, pant legs, etc.

If the edge is to coarse for you, repeat the process on the 5k.

If that's to fine, then go back to the 1k, then do a few (3-5 or so) edge leading passes on the 5k, then unloaded strop.
 
A soaker or soft synthetic makes a more aggressive edge. . . Very few splash and go synthetics have been really good for me that way. Splash and go natural works though -- some aoto require a brief saturation period under a minute, but most finishers dont need to be soaked. Otherwise, yeah just use your 1000 grit, perhaps make a diamond slurry or use a nagura of some sort and that will be pretty aggressive
 
Guys, the man wants to BUY a new stone! By all means, we should support and encourage him! (enabling is the core of friendship)

Not necessarily more coarse, but to get the bite, a better gap than a 1k to 3-4K, and a different experience from the SP's, perhaps a JKI Synthetic Natural or a Belgian Blue (in that order). If you wanna stay in the 3-4K range, a RockStar is an option too.
 
Higher budget: Washita
Lower budget: Norton India Combo

Personally, I am of the opinion that both of these are so compelling that they need to be in everyone’s collection.

I just bought a washita for 88 cents plus $10 shipping. Lol. It's broken and dished but should turn out nice.
 
Higher budget: Washita
Lower budget: Norton India Combo

Personally, I am of the opinion that both of these are so compelling that they need to be in everyone’s collection.
Higher budget - Washita
Even higher budget - Turkey stone.


I find my best toothy edges come from using a lower grit stone (an SG500 is ideal) to hone and deburr, and then I follow that with a fine natural stone like a coticule, Llyn Idwal, Tom O Shanta, etc, but I only use the natural stone for about 30 seconds. Just enough to bump the keenness, but not enough to remove the scratch pattern of the previous stone.

Tomato lightsaber.
 
Higher budget - Washita
Even higher budget - Turkey stone.


I find my best toothy edges come from using a lower grit stone (an SG500 is ideal) to hone and deburr, and then I follow that with a fine natural stone like a coticule, Llyn Idwal, Tom O Shanta, etc, but I only use the natural stone for about 30 seconds. Just enough to bump the keenness, but not enough to remove the scratch pattern of the previous stone.

Tomato lightsaber.

This is the way!!
 
Higher budget - Washita
Even higher budget - Turkey stone.


I find my best toothy edges come from using a lower grit stone (an SG500 is ideal) to hone and deburr, and then I follow that with a fine natural stone like a coticule, Llyn Idwal, Tom O Shanta, etc, but I only use the natural stone for about 30 seconds. Just enough to bump the keenness, but not enough to remove the scratch pattern of the previous stone.

Tomato lightsaber.
“Use less force, Luke!”
 
Higher budget - Washita
Even higher budget - Turkey stone.


I find my best toothy edges come from using a lower grit stone (an SG500 is ideal) to hone and deburr, and then I follow that with a fine natural stone like a coticule, Llyn Idwal, Tom O Shanta, etc, but I only use the natural stone for about 30 seconds. Just enough to bump the keenness, but not enough to remove the scratch pattern of the previous stone.

Tomato lightsaber.
yes! this is exactly how i do it. either sg500 or king neo 800 followed by an array of different natural mid grits depending on the steel and how toothy an edge i want

from coarsest to finest:
'purple' binsui (ikkyu ave)
ikarashi (maxim)
numata (bst)
aoto (metalmaster)
aizu (bst)
turkish (cretan knives)

the first and last ones are still reasonably available, and imo the binsui from ikkyu is underrated, at least the one i have that was listed as a purple binsui. perfect finisher for 'lesser' stainless like cck. ikarashi for vg10, numata for misono ux-10, aizu or turkish for ginsan (and poor lonely aoto i can't bear to part with)
 
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Lots of good suggestions for using what you already have or natural stone options. I have used an aoto, JKI synth nat, and (currently) Belgian Blue as go-to options here. Also tried the aoto as a nagura on a 6k and thought that worked pretty good.

If you like the Shaptons you have, also consider a SP2k if you want a one stone option. Progressions are fun but also introduce more room to make mistakes.
 
No new stones are needed.

Practice slurry, stropping, angle and a steady hand.

IMG_1288.jpeg
 
As others have said, you do not need more stones. I would suggest if you want a toothy edge, spend less time on the 5k stone when you use it and use very light pressure. However most of us aren’t here due to need, if you wanted another stone the SP2k is a great stone.
 
SG500 or SR1000 > SR2000 > kangaroo leather strop. Can add in a few trailing strokes in SR5000-6000 for extra refinement but not necessary. Absolutely elite balance.
 
I'll echo, the main issue is deburring. Sharpen on your 1K, then deburr gently with the 5K. If you want more stones, the SP2K is a great stone, much easier to deburr than the 1K, and a Belgian Blue won't cost much and is pretty ideal for these applications.
 
I pair the SP1000 with the SP2000 and call it done. Good bite, long time.

The 1000 works like a little bit lower grit than name suggests, the 2000 acts more like a 3-4000 grit.

Tried for a long time to find something the SP5000 did well. It eluded me.

And next time you have some extra coin, add a SG500 to your kit.
 
Chosera 800 to BBW is lovely

Shapton glass 120 to BBW if you're feeling adventurous. I do this with my beater paring knives or steak knives

Dan's Washita ($30 At KME) I use this one a lot for toothy edges. Sometimes finish on BBW sometimes leave as is. Really been enjoying it.

Chosera 800 to 3k is nice finer toothy edge as well
 
I like shapton pro 2k for very toothy finisher
BBW for slightly more refined, but still toothy finisher

Both are between a sp1k and sp5k
 
In order from more bite, less fine to less bite, more fine:

Aoto
Aizu
Gesshin synthetic natural
Maruoyama shiro suita
 
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