My angle & pressure problem

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If the low spots are everywhere, you probably better just leave it as it is and reduce it every time you sharpen it, otherwise you will just shorten your new knife life even before you start to enjoy using it.
My TF also came with flaws. it has a couple of big low spots (if you see the pic that i posted in another thread) I just lucky that the edge is even and flat.
 
J.C said:
If the low spots are everywhere, you probably better just leave it as it is and reduce it every time you sharpen it, otherwise you will just shorten your new knife life even before you start to enjoy using it.
My TF also came with flaws. it has a couple of big low spots (if you see the pic that i posted in another thread) I just lucky that the edge is even and flat.
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Good advice, i choose to to this way as well. reduce the low spot by every time i sharpen to extend my knife life.
 
If the knife isn't straight, no amount of sharpening/thinning/reprofiling is going to fix the problem. And just cause other problems.
 
Over grind is just as worse as a bad heat treat not sure why people overlook it. If the low spot is at the edge level, As you will be grinding over evenly from both sides won't you end up with a gap in the edge?
I think this was discussed here on KKF when people were complaining about Moritaka.
 
Funny thing is Moritaka although they had a very good heat treat on their aogami super were completely disqualified by the KKF community for their over grind issues. But TF is highly praised although facing the same issues if not worse. I guess if influential members invest in one smith, everything can be overlooked and guys like Adam here can pay the price for this hyped publicity.
 
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Codered said:
Funny thing is Moritaka although they had a very good heat treat on their aogami super were completely disqualified by the KKF community for their over grind issues but TF is highly praised although facing the same issues if not worse. I guess if influential members invest in one smith, everything can be overlooked and guys like Adam here can pay the pice for this hyped publicity.
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I think there's the charm for each knife, someone likefor the looks, someone looks for cutting, someone looks for F&F, everyone have different favourites option.

Anyway, after tried if not like it can be trades.
 
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Actually i don't understand what mean edge not straight, when i put the marker pen there's some spot didn't touch the stone.

Is is low spot? when i look at the blade look straight , i don't know how to identify the edge is straight or not... hope someone can explain to me..
 
adam92 said:
Actually i don't understand what mean edge not straight, when i put the marker pen there's some spot didn't touch the stone.

Is is low spot? when i look at the blade look straight , i don't know how to identify the edge is straight or not... hope someone can explain to me..
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adam92 said:
View attachment 68510
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If you do the exact same thing on the other side of the blade, is there a hump where you are now seeing light shine through? I believe that would indicate what people have said about the blade not being straight, but rather bent like a snake.

From the top down view of the edge in your previous post it does look a little like its “snaking”, like railroad tracks.

60767CBE-DA0E-4B18-95E6-4231932A753E.jpeg


Please excuse the borrowed internet picture.
 
Look at the blade road. From this picture I can see an low spot in middle running all the way to the edge. You can't remove that by removing material. It will only make it worse. Send back the knife and ask for money back.
IMG_20200111_212457.jpg
 
Codered said:
Look at the blade road. From this picture I can see an low spot in middle running all the way to the edge. You can't remove that by removing material. It will only make it worse. Send back the knife and ask for money back.
View attachment 68517
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I don't understand where is it, Can you please point it out from my picture for understanding ?
 
Kristoffer said:
If you do the exact same thing on the other side of the blade, is there a hump where you are now seeing light shine through? I believe that would indicate what people have said about the blade not being straight, but rather bent like a snake.

From the top down view of the edge in your previous post it does look a little like its “snaking”, like railroad tracks.

View attachment 68516

Please excuse the borrowed internet picture.
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My left side same spot don't have the light hump, but left side close to the heel have light when i use credit card to see the knife flat or not.

Left side close to tip also have light...

Is my knife dead now?
 
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adam92 said:
My left side same spot don't have the light hump, but left side close to the heel have light when i use credit card to see the knife flat or not.

Left side close to tip also have light...

Is my knife dead now?
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Is the left side even and smooth in the spot that the right side shows light, or is it formed like a peak or a hill instead?
 
adam92 said:
This is the opposite spot of my right side, when i use card i didn't see any light.

The card stay flat to the knife.
View attachment 68521
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Is this foams like a peaks?

Sorry guys, for my limited english, most of time i need to google translate it... hope you guys can understand.
 
adam92 said:
This is the opposite spot of my right side, when i use card i didn't see any light.

The card stay flat to the knife.
View attachment 68521
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I may very well be wrong in this, and hope that others will chime in, but to me it looks like the edge is weaving or snaking back and forth. In the location we’ve discussed there is a trough on the right hand side, and that you ground down most of the corresponding peak on the left hand side.
 
adam92 said:
This is the opposite spot of my right side, when i use card i didn't see any light.

The card stay flat to the knife.
View attachment 68521
Click to expand...
Looking at this picture it is obvious he has a lot of overgrind issues at the edge level. Just compare his picture with the examples from this thread about overgrind by Dave Martel https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/overgrind-into-the-edge.6159/
If the knife is also bent then the OP should return it at once. They should be ashamed for selling a knife in such poor condition.
 
Kristoffer said:
I may very well be wrong in this, and hope that others will chime in, but to me it looks like the edge is weaving or snaking back and forth. In the location we’ve discussed there is a trough on the right hand side, and that you ground down most of the corresponding peak on the left hand side.
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I’m inclined to agree with this.

If I’m not mistaken, Adam is talking about not being able to hit the edge of the knife while sharpening. Is that correct? If so, it’s probably not an overgrind. (Or rather, maybe there’s an overgrind, but that’s probably not the real problem.) If the person grinding overground all the way to the edge, then the profile would likely be altered there, so that when you put the edge of the knife on a cutting board, you’d see a lot of light under that part. I’m assuming that’s not the case since Adam didn’t mention it.

The edge not being straight would explain everything above. So, you’d have to bend it back somehow. I have no experience with doing this, other than with slight tip bends.

Please correct me if you have more experience, though.
 
I'm a maker and in this situation assuming it is soft jacket sanmai, i would use my soft hammer and a slightly dished stump. Or straightening sticks.
 
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ian said:
I’m inclined to agree with this.

If I’m not mistaken, Adam is talking about not being able to hit the edge of the knife while sharpening. Is that correct? If so, it’s probably not an overgrind. (Or rather, maybe there’s an overgrind, but that’s probably not the real problem.) If the person grinding overground all the way to the edge, then the profile would likely be altered there, so that when you put the edge of the knife on a cutting board, you’d see a lot of light under that part. I’m assuming that’s not the case since Adam didn’t mention it.

The edge not being straight would explain everything above. So, you’d have to bend it back somehow. I have no experience with doing this, other than with slight tip bends.

Please correct me if you have more experience, though.
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Yes, I'm not able to hit the edge when i sharpening, particularly right side the part i maker it.

I've no issue when i put the blade on cutting board because i didn't see the light coming out.

I really don't know how to bent the knife, I'm afraid I'll break the knife.

I just contact the seller & let's see do he accepts the return & fix it..
 
DanielC said:
I'm a maker and in this situation assuming it is soft jacket sanmai, i would use my soft hammer and a slightly dished stump. Or straightening sticks.
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This is sanmai knife, but i, didn't have soft hammer & don't know how to do neither.

I'm so sad now.
 
Kristoffer said:
I may very well be wrong in this, and hope that others will chime in, but to me it looks like the edge is weaving or snaking back and forth. In the location we’ve discussed there is a trough on the right hand side, and that you ground down most of the corresponding peak on the left hand side.
Click to expand...

Yes, the edge just like waving, I'm checking every two strokes& try marker pen but i don't know why some spot became like this...
 
Codered said:
Looking at this picture it is obvious he has a lot of overgrind issues at the edge level. Just compare his picture with the examples from this thread about overgrind by Dave Martel https://www.kitchenknifeforums.com/threads/overgrind-into-the-edge.6159/
If the knife is also bent then the OP should return it at once. They should be ashamed for selling a knife in such poor condition.
Click to expand...
Last night i talked to Dave & showed him the picture. He say looks like same issue as the knife he dealing before, now i gonna contact seller & asking for return/fixing ...
 
This makes me nervous since I have a 180 mab on the way direct from TF. I wish you the best of luck man. I will say if you decide to take it to an atoma I would definitely go 400 or 600 over 140 just because the 140 scratches are a ***** to get out. For the price of these knives ( mab and denka ) this should not be happening. I’m all about the rustic look etc but the over grinds and bends are not cool man.

edit : thought I read the whole thread and saw all the photos. I didn’t. If i were you and it was me. I would contact gaku, show him every picture you have, and ask for a refund. Again, for the price of these knives , this is unacceptable.
 
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San Mai knife bend/warp easily, this is not just TF, over half of my name brand San Mai knifes were not perfectly straight, this includes TF, Kurosaki, Toyama, Yoshikane etc., although to different degrees. It’s not a big deal. Even Shig. will warp overtime & need correction eventually.

It’s easy to bend it back, you can do it by hand over the counter top, but more precisely, I prefer rubber mullet lightly hitting the high spot on the blade lay flat on a cutting board. It’s important to straighten the knife before sharpening & thinning. You might have to do it a few times as the internal force tend to want to bend it back after initial correction.

look at your other San Mai knives, they are probably not perfectly straight either.

Some blade warp, like my TF, the edge & spine bend towards opposite directions, in which case, you may not be able to cure both, it’s more important to keep the edge straight. This might have something to do with TF super high HRC, thus, more internal steel stress. It’s probably much easier to stay flat if it’s 60 HRC, but I love my TF the most even with all its flaws. It’s a project knife for sure, not for everyone.

if your knife is straight, all you need to do is to thin it, even out the high low spots
 
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