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First time I sharpened soft stainless, I thought to myself, "That's it? Burr is gone already? Are you sure? Yup, it's gone."

Real eye opener.
Yeah, it's almost hard to believe, the same stone being perfect for cheap soft stainless, and for the most extreme supersteels like Maxamet. It makes you want to say "what's the catch," but then you see the price...
 
Venev 100/240 (after a 1 man pass around), 0.5 and 2 micron diamond paste.
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Love to hear what you think of it
Well, I really like it for stropping. I use a leather belt with green compound. Once I have a knife my German knives sharpened at 15 degrees I am just using the belt to touch up the blade. It seems to work.
 
What did you use for sealing? I read some comments here that it can absorb a lot and of product before sealing effectively, depending on what you use.

Also, should I permasoak?
Spray lacquer is easy to use. Tape the sharpening surface. Do a few light coats, 3-5 or so. Permasoak is definitely preferred. The stone is really porous though. Also, don't bother washing away the mud. It'll help keep the surface hydrated.
 
Spray lacquer is easy to use. Tape the sharpening surface. Do a few light coats, 3-5 or so. Permasoak is definitely preferred. The stone is really porous though. Also, don't bother washing away the mud. It'll help keep the surface hydrated.
Got it. I think I have a can of Rust-Oleum lacquer somewhere. Was also thinking epoxy but spray lacquer sounds less messy.
 
I think KME realized their mistake on the $15 washita and just updated the price, still a good deal. 6x2"

https://www.kmesharp.com/dans-washita-stones-coarse-grit.html
I would love to hear your opinion of that stone. I've used mine a hand full of times, and I am pretty happy with it, but I don't have the wealth of experience many of this forums members have.
Btw, I think there is some pumace or white powder on those. After a bit of scrubbing mine turned out to have a bit of a tea stain appearance.

Happy new stone day! :p
 

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I would love to hear your opinion of that stone. I've used mine a hand full of times, and I am pretty happy with it, but I don't have the wealth of experience many of this forums members have.
Btw, I think there is some pumace or white powder on those. After a bit of scrubbing mine turned out to have a bit of a tea stain appearance.

Happy new stone day! :p
I've run in to a problem, which I suspect afflicts many a KKFer...I've run out knives to sharpen! Been on such a coti/BBW kick that now I only have 1 VG7 knife left, but I reckon this will work knicely on it. Ginsan-ish
 
Seal the Sigma. You're water company will thank me.
Done. I only had black lacquer at home (?? probably bought by mistake). It will probably make a mess when lapping but it looks cool and worked well. 6 or so light coats, first two seemed to get absorbed and only dirt the surface, but from the 3rd onwards it started sealing.


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It's been a while so a lot of stuff to show...
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DMD 400/1200 Diamond plate.
Spyderco 302M
Spyderco 302F
Spyderco 306UF
The Spyderco stones where more of a spontaneus buy as I could get the whole set new for 200 Euros.

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Skerper Arkansas Hard Black
RH Preyda Surgical Black
Müller Hard Translucent
Some old hard translucent stone that I am flattening right now. This one was used by a goldsmith so therefore it is dished out in the middle.
 
I like the white Spyderco stones for woodworking, but they feel more like an arkansas stone - super hard and easy to blunt your edge if the angle isn't spot on.

Any luck refreshing the surface of the black stones?
 
Any luck refreshing the surface of the black stones?
I didn't have the need to refresh these stones, as I have them for a month or so.

I really enjoy the arkansas as well the spyderco stones.
For a long time I avoided sharpening on a stone because of the process of drying the stone.
Both these stones are an excellent solution for fast touchups on knives.
 
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