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I worked on my wrought clad/52100 @HSC /// Knives Gyuto some more.

Progression was SG 500, SG 4k, 1k sandpaper, 1 micron diamond paste. Followed by etching (a mix of balsamic vinegar, old coffee and coffee made with white vinegar). Wrapped some paper towels around the blade, and poured the mixture over the blade several times. Then let it sit for 20 minutes. I then gave it a vigorous washing with hot water, soap and the soft side of a sponge. I think it turned out pretty good?


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I worked on my wrought clad/52100 @HSC /// Knives Gyuto some more.

Progression was SG 500, SG 4k, 1k sandpaper, 1 micron diamond paste. Followed by etching (a mix of balsamic vinegar, old coffee and coffee made with white vinegar). Wrapped some paper towels around the blade, and poured the mixture over the blade several times. Then let it sit for 20 minutes. I then gave it a vigorous washing with hot water, soap and the soft side of a sponge. I think it turned out pretty good?


View attachment 162275View attachment 162276View attachment 162277View attachment 162278
1k sandpaper after the 4K stone?
 
I worked on my wrought clad/52100 @HSC /// Knives Gyuto some more.

Progression was SG 500, SG 4k, 1k sandpaper, 1 micron diamond paste. Followed by etching (a mix of balsamic vinegar, old coffee and coffee made with white vinegar). Wrapped some paper towels around the blade, and poured the mixture over the blade several times. Then let it sit for 20 minutes. I then gave it a vigorous washing with hot water, soap and the soft side of a sponge. I think it turned out pretty good?


View attachment 162275View attachment 162276View attachment 162277View attachment 162278
Wild
 
I worked on my wrought clad/52100 @HSC /// Knives Gyuto some more.

Progression was SG 500, SG 4k, 1k sandpaper, 1 micron diamond paste. Followed by etching (a mix of balsamic vinegar, old coffee and coffee made with white vinegar). Wrapped some paper towels around the blade, and poured the mixture over the blade several times. Then let it sit for 20 minutes. I then gave it a vigorous washing with hot water, soap and the soft side of a sponge. I think it turned out pretty good?


View attachment 162275View attachment 162276View attachment 162277View attachment 162278
Coffee made with vinegar is next level
 
Early morning sharpening session. Pictured is a Kagekiyo White #2 150mm petty and previously mentioned Aiiwatani koppa. Full progression was Shapton 1k, NP 3k and finished on the Aiiwatani.

I've tried to have a zero edge on this, but it failed way to early. So this time I've put a less acute angle on it, and it got screaming sharp. @stringer's edge leading video has really made a difference in my sharpening!

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Early morning sharpening session. Pictured is a Kagekiyo White #2 150mm petty and previously mentioned Aiiwatani koppa. Full progression was Shapton 1k, NP 3k and finished on the Aiiwatani.

I've tried to have a zero edge on this, but it failed way to early. So this time I've put a less acute angle on it, and it got screaming sharp. @stringer's edge leading video has really made a difference in my sharpening!

View attachment 162865
Where can I watch said video? Always looking for good sharpening videos. All you guys and your Jnats… jealous over here! I just have a pile of synthetics. Granted they are great ones but still…
 
Where can I watch said video? Always looking for good sharpening videos. All you guys and your Jnats… jealous over here! I just have a pile of synthetics. Granted they are great ones but still…

I need to update it. It's been a few years. But my basic take remains the same. Get the knife thin behind the edge. Then build a nice clean burr free cutting bevel. Lots of ways to get there. Edge leading with gradually diminishing pressure works very well for me.

 
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It’s finally zero bevel. Wow that took a while. Things I learned..

- TF AS is kind of hard to thin
- SG220 dishes faster than I thought, and seems to glaze a bit. When it’s good, it’s good tho
- Cerax 320 is inappropriately muddy. I think I like what it can do but my goodness the mud
- TF stainless cladding isn’t super hard or abrasion resistant. Actually kind of nice to work with

I had to remove what feels like a ton of steel, but in reality probably wasn’t much. Didn’t do myself any favours with stone choice either.
 
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It’s finally zero bevel. Wow that took a while. Things I learned..

- TF AS is kind of hard to thin
- SG220 dishes faster than I thought, and seems to glaze a bit. When it’s good, it’s good tho
- Cerax 320 is inappropriately muddy. I think I like what it can do but my goodness the mud
- TF stainless cladding isn’t super hard or abrasion resistant. Actually kind of nice to work with

I had to remove what feels like a ton of steel, but in reality probably wasn’t much. Didn’t do myself any favours with stone choice either.
I could not agree more about the Cerax 320. I have gone through like 70% of mine already and I have not had it long enough to merit that. It does cut well (albeit very loudly) but mine makes a crazy amount of mud and dishes out like nobody’s business. For thinning that can obviously be a good thing but I just couldn’t believe how fast I went through it! I recently picked up the Imanishi pink brick 220 and I like that for fast cutting and thinning a LOT more. I keep it permasoaked as well as run water on it during use and it cuts like nothing I’ve ever used. My other go-to for fast cutting is a SG 320. That’s probably my favorite lower grit stone period. Mine hasn’t dished if at all.. I keep it super flat but it basically looks the same as it did when I bought it like a year ago. Anyhow, cheers brother! That Denka is definitely on my list.
 
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View attachment 163343
View attachment 163344
It’s finally zero bevel. Wow that took a while. Things I learned..

- TF AS is kind of hard to thin
- SG220 dishes faster than I thought, and seems to glaze a bit. When it’s good, it’s good tho
- Cerax 320 is inappropriately muddy. I think I like what it can do but my goodness the mud
- TF stainless cladding isn’t super hard or abrasion resistant. Actually kind of nice to work with

I had to remove what feels like a ton of steel, but in reality probably wasn’t much. Didn’t do myself any favours with stone choice either.
Great even bevel, I agree with the cerax 320 statement, it doesn't cut well for neither edge sharpening or thinning as dishes too quickly.
 
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Reactions: Pie
Early morning sharpening session. Pictured is a Kagekiyo White #2 150mm petty and previously mentioned Aiiwatani koppa. Full progression was Shapton 1k, NP 3k and finished on the Aiiwatani.

I've tried to have a zero edge on this, but it failed way to early. So this time I've put a less acute angle on it, and it got screaming sharp. @stringer's edge leading video has really made a difference in my sharpening!

View attachment 162865

Very nice! I tried to sharpen and thin mine for the first time, only to find out it was hollow ground.
Aesthetically not great but sharp and functional.

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This knife was surprisingly usable after a dip in the 'ol electrolytic bucket, so this is my first time doing any work on it (sanding faces, easing the spine, and sharpening). I'll get the rest of the vertical 220 scratches out next go round, as I'm still working both improving my sharpening in general and gathering info about all the stones I've accumulated. This was a Medium India to Hindostan progression, and it's not ideal for this knife (or I'm not yet ideal for this knife plus this stone progression).
 

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I've been slightly remiss in not actually posting anything on this thread for a while, so here's some stuff from today...

Top to bottom: Escher, Escher, Schwedenstein, Green Thuri, Lily White:

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L to R: Debado 600, SG500

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Put a microbevel on the denka I’ve been thinning last night. NP3k, Hideriyama, iromono vintage barber koppa. Sharpest yet, hair poppingly so. After trying all my finishers, there’s a clear favourite - the cheapest, smallest stone of unknown strata or pedigree. It works just how I want it to 👌.
 
Getting to know the Yoshikane in SKD. The OOTB edge was super thin and somewhat fragile. It's also a really low angle. I'd guess somewhere around 10dps. I didn't set out to change anything, just get rid of the "factory" steel a bit and see if the apex toughens up some. This is one I'll creep up on over time because it slices so well I don't want to screw anything up!

Stone wise, started and stopped on a Shapton Glass 2k. Stropped on suede with CrO and then bare cardboard.
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Man I don't know if it was the proximity of my phone to me cutting but it sounds really loud! Still not as smooth as I'd like but not too bad.
 
This knife was a lot of firsts for me. I did my first tip repair on this knife, which was really quick and easy on the SG500, really satisfying way to start off a somewhat painful journey with this knife actually. Next I moved the shinogi up a fair amount, in anticipation of chip repair. This was pretty smooth and I got a pretty good feel for the SG500 doing this, as it was also my first time using this stone. Next, I removed a number of small chips along the length of the blade, from the heel to the tip, and in doing so got a lot of practice finding and maintaining an angle, as well as following the geometry of the knife. After all this I went ahead and sharpened it, SG500, chosera 1k, and chosera 3k, I have to say the scratch pattern on the chosera 3k is really not very good looking, seeming the most inconsistent out of the 3 stones and giving the least contrast. If I did something wrong with this stone someone please let me know, I'm still relatively new to these things. Anyway, just off the 3k stone I was pretty satisfied with the edge, happily making paper shavings (but not cutting paper towel) and it deburred quickly and cleanly. The knife is some flavor of mystery stainless, but I have no experience sharpening stainless other this knife so I can't really make any comparisons about how it behaved. Overall this knife was a really good learning experience for me, and for like 30 bucks I'm pretty satisfied with it. If I had an edge guard or a saya, it would definitely make its way into my backpack during fishing trips.
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