Don’t use felt lined plastic blade guards on reactive steel

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Aidan

Aidan

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I’m sure it’s been said somewhere round here before but I’ll add my pennyworth… Don’t use felt lined plastic blade guards on reactive steel.
Forgetting previous experience I put a white steel petty into one and stored it in a drawer for about a month. On pulling it out I realised the knife was fused inside the guard by rust. Meh!
 

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Aidan said:
I’m sure it’s been said somewhere round here before but I’ll add my pennyworth… Don’t use felt lined plastic blade guards on reactive steel.
Forgetting previous experience I put a white steel petty into one and stored it in a drawer for about a month. On pulling it out I realised the knife was fused inside the guard by rust. Meh!
Click to expand...
So any suggestions on what to do with this would be appreciated. Single bevel, the back side of the knife is a concave ura so cleaning it up will not be straightforward
 
Not sure what your space situation is, but a magnetic strip / block would mitigate any issues around small amounts of water sticking around since they allow airflow.

Other than that, I've heard washing with hot water and then drying thoroughly can help since the residual heat helps deal with those last little bits of moisture. It might make sense to do that + wait a little bit after washing & drying before putting the guard on.
 
Cleaning the bevel side is straightforward, just sharpen until the rust is gone. Ura is a little bit complicated. If the rust is only the surface you could probably get it all off with a brass brush and some elbow grease. You could also try boiling the knife in water for 30-45 minutes and then use 0000 steel wool or a brass brush to clean off the rust.
 
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I have had it happen. When client knives come in with those guards, I wrap the blade in VCI paper, then back into the guard.
 
Aidan said:
I’m sure it’s been said somewhere round here before but I’ll add my pennyworth… Don’t use felt lined plastic blade guards on reactive steel.
Forgetting previous experience I put a white steel petty into one and stored it in a drawer for about a month. On pulling it out I realised the knife was fused inside the guard by rust. Meh!
Click to expand...
Aidan said:
I’m sure it’s been said somewhere round here before but I’ll add my pennyworth… Don’t use felt lined plastic blade guards on reactive steel.
Forgetting previous experience I put a white steel petty into one and stored it in a drawer for about a month. On pulling it out I realised the knife was fused inside the guard by rust. Meh!
Click to expand...
I’ve used the felt lined guards with my carbons, in my experience it depended on the steel types/maker—iron clad Watanabe and Mazaki developed rust; whereas I’ve not had problems with 52100 or some of my other carbons.
I’m a fan of cork lined guards, and use them a lot—pricier than felt, but works for me.

AF54A0B0-4848-4C3C-A802-1F986B4AF8ED.jpeg
 
Try to feel the inside of your felt with your finger, if it’s wet or too much moisture then it’s not the felt problem, it’s the environment.
 
I live in England. It’s very dry here, inside and out! This has happened with a number of reactive knives, vintage and modern, in the past…
I wash and dry thoroughly I have 3 full wooden knife racks, several sayas but improvised cardboard sheaths are the way forward when I’m short of protection…
 
Aidan said:
So any suggestions on what to do with this would be appreciated. Single bevel, the back side of the knife is a concave ura so cleaning it up will not be straightforward
Click to expand...
Make a paste with baking soda and lemon juice. Rub all over knife. 0000 steel wool for any stubborn parts.
 
So I knocked the handle off and rubbed the rust off with a bras brush under water. This left the mottled pattern on the ura which I have tried to remove with some ‘mud’ and then sandpaper. This is as good as it gets, it seems. Would electrolysis work better?
 

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On a different matter, I often read on here from members looking for cheap carbon steel on which to practice, well these little knives are brilliant for the money. Okeya Kitchen Knife Set
 
I had a felt guard rust out a K Sab. The knife definitely didn't get put away wet, but it happened anyway. Now I'm a convert to cork lined guards unless the blade is stainless.
 
Electrolysis won’t do any more. To improve the finish will need abrasion. Loose abrasive with a bit of oil to slurry and rubbed using a champagne cork works well. Or if you have power - a stitched mop and cutting compound with a firm grip and only touching the wheel with it spinning away from you
 
TB_London said:
Electrolysis won’t do any more. To improve the finish will need abrasion. Loose abrasive with a bit of oil to slurry and rubbed using a champagne cork works well. Or if you have power - a stitched mop and cutting compound with a firm grip and only touching the wheel with it spinning away from you
Click to expand...
Thank you and thanks for the cork idea
 
Aidan said:
I live in England. It’s very dry here, inside and out! This has happened with a number of reactive knives, vintage and modern, in the past…
I wash and dry thoroughly I have 3 full wooden knife racks, several sayas but improvised cardboard sheaths are the way forward when I’m short of protection…
Click to expand...
Dry in England, really?
 
If storing carbons wash with soapy hot water. Dry completely With a dry towel not damp dish towel. I use thin layer of mineral oil cover wipe off excess. Do these simple steps whole blade including neck where it comes out of handle. Choil, spine.

Carbons do best when used a lot. If you store them for months or years do it right.
 
This happened to a knife I lent out, same felt lined guard. I don’t like using them, because I also worry about stray grit. Sometimes carrying knives around necessitates them, but I much prefer other storage methods.
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I’m lucky it’s not single bevel.
 
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